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Thread: First Saber--Imperial Knight

  1. #1

    Default Imperial Knight saber

    Okay, folks. Here's MY first hand-built: the Imperial Knight I should've gotten from Saberforge but ended up building myself (with more than a little help from electronics-savvy friends).

    The only thing I can't figure is that I feel like it should be WAY brighter than it is. I've tried both tube and film diffusers to no avail. It's running a Seoul P4 white on 4AAA Duracell Ultras. No clue why it's not blinding.

    [EDIT]Sorry, it's running a 2005 Vader Force FX board.[/EDIT]







    Last edited by The Grey Elf; 05-13-2010 at 07:55 PM.

  2. #2
    Council Member
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    Lord Dottore Matto's Avatar
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    Congrats man!
    All n00bs READ these first (PLEASE)!!!:1. LDM's Basic Saber-build Step-by-Step Tutorial 1A. Maul's Saber Dictionary 1B. THREAD INDEX 1C. Econo Sound Diagrams
    TCSS the #1 Part supplier of LDM customsabers!

  3. #3

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    I hate to even ask this, but you did use a focusing optic in that, right? It looks like you didn't to me. Otherwise, it looks good!

    Got a question? Start Here. Have you tried the Thread Index yet? Most questions can be answered there.

  4. #4

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jay-gon Jinn View Post
    I hate to even ask this, but you did use a focusing optic in that, right? It looks like you didn't to me. Otherwise, it looks good!
    I did, yes. 5 degree collimator.

  5. #5

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    Quote Originally Posted by The Grey Elf View Post
    I did, yes. 5 degree collimator.
    How much diffuser film did you use, that looks waaaaayyyy too dim for white p4.

    Also are the batteries new?

    I noticed that with my Maul blades and a 10 degree optic my lux 3 reds are not as bright as they are in a thinner walled FX blade. Is your blade thick or thin?
    Last edited by Invisas1979; 05-14-2010 at 04:59 AM.
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  6. #6
    Jedi Padawan strengthofrage's Avatar
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    Another thing to check would be your solder points/joints... sometimes a weak solder joint will cause that dimming you have there
    "Run when you have to, fight when you must, rest when you can."


  7. #7

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    It's a thin-walled blade from TCSS. Originally had corbin film in it, but that has been changed out to a tube diffuser (as I said, I was experimenting with diffusion materials).

    The batteries are relatively new. Just changed them earlier this week*. Even brand new, however, while I noted a difference with the Ultras, it still wasn't as bright as it should be with a P4.

    Solder points have been double-checked. They're pretty solid.


    [EDIT]*Sunday, to be exact.

    Also, that pic was taken with the lights on and a flash. I think I have one with the lights out and no flash. Let me check.

    [EDIT again]
    Not here at work. Didn't upload it. I'll do so when I get home later.
    Last edited by The Grey Elf; 05-14-2010 at 05:08 AM. Reason: adding info.

  8. #8

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    I gotta wonder if you have the LED wired correctly. Even it a lit room it should be much brighter. At least enough to have dim light reach the tip.

    Nice work on the the hilt though. It looks simple but very effective. The d-ring insert are great aren't they? I would be tempted to use a bezel nut instead of the plastic though.

  9. #9

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    Quote Originally Posted by Crystal Chambers View Post
    I gotta wonder if you have the LED wired correctly. Even it a lit room it should be much brighter. At least enough to have dim light reach the tip.

    Nice work on the the hilt though. It looks simple but very effective. The d-ring insert are great aren't they? I would be tempted to use a bezel nut instead of the plastic though.
    That is a bezel nut. I just installed it yesterday.

  10. #10

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    Oh my bad, you must have painted it did you?

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