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Thread: eastern57's lighthound momentary to latching switch mod

  1. #1

    Default eastern57's lighthound momentary to latching switch mod

    I have the link to the fx-sabers.com writeup for eastern57's mod but that forum is down.
    Does anyone have a copy of it?
    I even tried cached Google pages but I can only get page 2 of that thread.
    I knew I should have printed it out.

    Thanks for any help!

    (I'm still noob enough I cant do PMs here)

  2. #2

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    As far as I know, eastern is on the TCSS forums to.
    But I can't remember what nick hes using here...
    The point of this is actually out to lunch.

  3. #3
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    eastern57 is on these boards, yes.

    Here is his tutorial from JSSDC

    First things first - This only applies to using the PCB from this light:
    http://www.lighthound.com/Lighthound...LED_p_967.html

    Anyway. :dft012:

    - The main negative of the PCB (that entire gold-circle back) goes to the main negative on the sound board (call this the "back" of the PCB).
    - Take the little metal connection plate off and attach your momentary switch leads to those connection points (call this the "front" of the PCB).
    - The two spots where the LED was attached will connect to your sound board main switch connections [sw(+) & sw(-)]. Sw(+) goes to the pad on the "back" of the PCB and sw(-) to the pad on the "front" of the PCB.


    Wide angle:




    Close up:




    Diagram:

    Aluke123 on every other forum - Old grumpy moderator here

    Thread Index, The Saber Building Dictionary, and The Basic Saber-Build Tutorial - Read Them!

  4. #4

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    Are things connected differently when there is a recharge port involved? Does the recharge port wire that normally goes to the board negative go to the PCB in this case? I got this to work using a regular 4AAA Alkaline battery solution, but want to use it with a rechargable 3.7 Li-Ion setup

    Any help on this would be greatly appreciated, thanks.

    LED Saber Combat Master Instructor
    Co-Founder of Caine and Novastar's Saber Combat System (NCSCS)
    Life's short...saberplay HARD!

  5. #5
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    A charge port doesn't affect it at all. All the port is is a break between the battery and the sound board. It might as well be a solid wire for this PCB. Just put the negative lead from the PCB to your sound board ground.
    Aluke123 on every other forum - Old grumpy moderator here

    Thread Index, The Saber Building Dictionary, and The Basic Saber-Build Tutorial - Read Them!

  6. #6

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    These are simple & will handle 10 amps. They work great & have mini led on them. I never could locate the lighthound thing & it may not handle larger setups.

    http://www.pololu.com/catalog/product/750

  7. #7

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    OK, just to clarify: I will have both the PCB and the recharge jack connected to the MR board ground, right?

    LED Saber Combat Master Instructor
    Co-Founder of Caine and Novastar's Saber Combat System (NCSCS)
    Life's short...saberplay HARD!

  8. #8
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    Correct.
    Aluke123 on every other forum - Old grumpy moderator here

    Thread Index, The Saber Building Dictionary, and The Basic Saber-Build Tutorial - Read Them!

  9. #9

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    Great. Thank you very much, LM!

    LED Saber Combat Master Instructor
    Co-Founder of Caine and Novastar's Saber Combat System (NCSCS)
    Life's short...saberplay HARD!

  10. #10

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    I just cant seem to get this to work right. If I have the wire connected to the battery (-) it doesnt work at all. If I disconnect the batter (-) wire sometimes the saber comes on and stays on, sometimes it comes on and goes off right away, and sometimes it comes on and runs for several seconds then goes off. Pardon the quick sloppy solders here. This was just a quick test to see if it worked. The yellow wire in the middle is NOT touching the "C" shaped pad next to it or it would be on all the time. I have redone the solders several times with the same issue. And yes that IS a momentary switch from the Shack. Any help would be greatly appreciated since I am an electronics newb.

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