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Thread: Basic Saber Build list of parts

  1. #91

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    Quote Originally Posted by FenixFire View Post
    Outsourcing production overflow would not be to other engineering firms. It would need to be contract manufacturing. I know of several dozen, but to be honest TCSS prices are at or below what most would charge him to do the contract manufacturing to the tolerances I have seen from the parts I have received from him. Unless he went to Asia, then tolerances and consistency would be the main concern.
    Is contract manufacturing not outsourcing production under a contract to an engineering firm to manufacture to a specification (both dimensional and material)?

    To me the option is simple - either pay a premium to outsource with the reduced profit margins that would entail, or lose business to competitors as clients go elsewhere because he cannot deliver what they want in a timely fashion. It is not rocket science!

  2. #92

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    I've seen signs in various establishments that state something along the lines of this:

    Fast, Good, Inexpensive. Pick two.

    If you want things faster, you'll have to sacrifice quality or price. Tim won't sacrifice quality, and he's intent on keeping prices affordable for those of us in the hobby. You may not get things at the speed you want (especially with demand going crazy), but you'll get quality parts at a great price. I'll take that any day.
    We all have to start somewhere. The journey is all the more impressive by our humble beginnings.

    http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz for the lazy man's resistor calculator!
    http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...e-to-Ohm-s-Law for getting resistor values the right way!

  3. #93

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    No, engineering firms do not manufacture, and manufacturing at best would only have tooling engineers on staff. If any at all, most manufacturing stateside rely on the polymer suppliers engineers to finalize the design and run the fea and mold flow. CNC fabricators like what would be needed here rarely have anything more than skilled machine operators.
    Last edited by FenixFire; 04-06-2016 at 07:51 PM.

  4. #94
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    Cire Yeldarb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Silver Serpent View Post
    I've seen signs in various establishments that state something along the lines of this:

    Fast, Good, Inexpensive. Pick two.

    If you want things faster, you'll have to sacrifice quality or price. Tim won't sacrifice quality, and he's intent on keeping prices affordable for those of us in the hobby. You may not get things at the speed you want (especially with demand going crazy), but you'll get quality parts at a great price. I'll take that any day.
    Great way to put it SS!

    I too would choose Quality and Affordable-Price any day!

  5. #95

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    Quote Originally Posted by Cire Yeldarb View Post
    Great way to put it SS!

    I too would choose Quality and Affordable-Price any day!
    And too often it's fast and cheep...

    That is what impressed me so much about the superb quality and beyond reasonable price (for in the world of mass production fairly low volume niche market product) of the TCSS parts and almost immediate customer service. I would kill to have this service and quality from even one of my prototyping and low volume manufacturing vendors.

  6. #96

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    Hello All,
    I am new to the site and saber building. I have been reading threads on building sabers for first time builders here and this forum is awesome. I will probably catch hell for asking this so here goes. I am looking at building a saber for my brother in law who is a huge star wars/saber collector. I am going to get a graflex 3 cell flash the from somewhere but I want to build the internal parts to include sound, light up crystal and led light for an eventual saber blade add on later for him. Right now I wanna just build him the hilt from ANH or ESB for him as a gift. Does anyone have a list of what I need to buy to get this going? Just going to be honest and admit I am not understanding what exactly I need in order to make this possible for him.

  7. #97
    Sith Warrior darth_chasm's Avatar
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    Welcome.

    Watch all all of the videos on building basic sabers in the video section here. They will give you an idea of well, the basics. Then do some searching on Graflex conversions. Also check out the FX Sabers forums. Many of us are members there as well and there is a great deal more about Graflex sabers on that site.

    Youre looking at $300-500+ for a vintage Graflex empty and around $200 for a replica empty. Just so you know, they're not cheap.
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  8. #98

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    Following the instructions in this thread (and dang--I wish all tutorials were this helpful), I bought the 700mA buckpuck and the Rebel Star LED (red). But I was hoping to use a different battery type than Li-Ion.

    I found this 2AA battery holder, which says it provides 3V of power, and that it can use rechargeables. I already use rechargeable NiMHs for my computer mouse... if I could use them for my lightsaber, too, that would be wonderfully convenient.

    The Rebel Star describes the red version as "Red 106lm @ 700mA 2.4v - Run at 700mA" which I assume means it requires 2.4V to work. I'm not sure if this is an absolute requirement, minimum requirement, etc. In either case, I'd think I'd want to keep the voltage as close as possible to 2.4V.

    The 2AA battery holder says it provides 3V of power. But doesn't the voltage depends on the strength of the batteries, not the properties of the holder itself? I've heard that alkaline AA's provide 1.5V each, so I can see how a 2AA battery holder using two alkalines would provide 3V... because 1.5 + 1.5 = 3. NiMH batteries like the kind I use apparently have a lower voltage, just 1.2V each. So I would expect a holder with two NiMH AA's to produce 2.4V instead of 3V.


    So, my questions are as follows:

    * Am I right in thinking that a 2AA battery holder using NiMHs would be a good choice for this kind of LED?

    * The 700mA buckpuck says "Min input voltage is 5V". Does this mean providing only 2.4V or 3V wouldn't work? Or will the buckpuck just not moderate currents weaker than 5V, or something?

    * What would happen if I did use alkalines that provided 3V? Would it be too much for the LED? If so, could the buckpuck effectively deal with that amount of excess, even though 3V is less than 5V?

    * Assuming that the 2AA battery holder will work, which version would I need: the one with the JST connector, or the one without? I'd assume without, since the JST versions all seem to mention MWS, which I'm not using.. but I want to be sure before I buy anything.


    What I know about electronics is mostly self-taught, so if I've said something that's incorrect, please don't hesitate to point it out. I like learning!

  9. #99

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    Quote Originally Posted by Spizaetus View Post
    * Am I right in thinking that a 2AA battery holder using NiMHs would be a good choice for this kind of LED?
    Most people will use Li-ion batteries instead of NiMHs. Each Li-ion cell will provide 3.4v, and two of them in series in an AA battery holder will provide 7.4v. 14500 batteries are AA sized.

    Quote Originally Posted by Spizaetus View Post
    * The 700mA buckpuck says "Min input voltage is 5V". Does this mean providing only 2.4V or 3V wouldn't work? Or will the buckpuck just not moderate currents weaker than 5V, or something?
    A buck puck will not turn on without exceeding the 5v requirement. So no, 2.4v or 3v will not work.

    Quote Originally Posted by Spizaetus View Post
    * What would happen if I did use alkalines that provided 3V? Would it be too much for the LED? If so, could the buckpuck effectively deal with that amount of excess, even though 3V is less than 5V?
    Alkaline batteries will lead to very short runtimes. If you use a buckpuck with only two alkaline cells, your runtime will be 0, as it won't even turn on.


    Quote Originally Posted by Spizaetus View Post
    * Assuming that the 2AA battery holder will work, which version would I need: the one with the JST connector, or the one without? I'd assume without, since the JST versions all seem to mention MWS, which I'm not using.. but I want to be sure before I buy anything.
    The only difference is the pre-connected JST connector. Its convenient if you're using it, but not worth it if you're going to be soldering directly.
    When you do things right, people won't be sure you've done anything at all.

  10. #100

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    Ah, I see. That makes a lot more sense. Thank you for the helpful answers! I'm one step closer to being able to put everything together now.

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