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Thread: inconsistant brightness levels with cree green led

  1. #11
    Jedi Council Member cardcollector's Avatar
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    Well, I posted that website a few months ago to link the Lux I's to help someone with a PVC build, and a council member (I don't remember who) asked me to remove it because it sells items TCSS sells too.

    If the rules have changed I apologize, I'll remove my posts if necesarry, I was just trying to help TCSS...
    Got a Question? There's a thread for that...
    ~Do what you can, with what you have, where you are.~Teddy Roosevelt

    SollusVir everywhere else... FXsabers, Youtube, etc...

  2. #12

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    An obvious and simple solution would seem to be a 5V voltage regulator...or am I missing something?
    There's always a bigger fish.

  3. #13

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    Thanks guys,

    The Lux V is a good option and I know a few places that still have heaps of stock.
    The 5v regulator seems interesting Matt where can I get one of these that will fit into a saber?
    anyways I got my MHS parts today so I'll be focusing on that for a while

    I appreciate all the advice thank you

    Cheers

  4. #14

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    Quote Originally Posted by color_monkey View Post
    Thanks guys,

    The Lux V is a good option and I know a few places that still have heaps of stock.
    The 5v regulator seems interesting Matt where can I get one of these that will fit into a saber?
    anyways I got my MHS parts today so I'll be focusing on that for a while

    I appreciate all the advice thank you

    Cheers
    Any "7805"-type linear regulator will do, but I find the ones in a TO-220, TO-220F, or TO-220FP package to be the easiest to work with. Where to buy it depends on where you live. If you have a favorite online electronic parts shop, just search for "7805 regulator" and you'll find one easily enough. Here's what the TO-220, TO-220F, and TO-220FP packages look like, respectively:

    They are all just slightly more than 1" long and about 0.4" wide. You can trim the legs if you need to.

    I wouldn't go with a Luxeon V. It's an awkward LED to work with, because it has a high forward voltage (6.84 Vf in the case of green), yet has a low maximum continuous current (700 mA). It's inefficient, and it doesn't make sense to buy a new (and already obsolete and discontinued) LED just to fit a higher voltage battery pack when it's so easy to control the voltage. You'll get a lot more run time between charges this way, and you shouldn't have a problem with heat.
    There's always a bigger fish.

  5. #15

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    Thanks Matt,
    I'll look into that

    cheers

  6. #16

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    Hey Matt,
    Why can't I find what i'm looking for in this forum
    anyway so I got the 5v to-220 regulators and I noticed when I got home that the wiring schematics were blank lol
    How do I wire this thing up to my saber?

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