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Thread: illuminated switch tricky location

  1. #1

    Default illuminated switch tricky location

    Hi everybody.
    I am finishing a hilt project and it looks good but there may be a problem. I do WANT an illuminated switch with activation box, so far, no problem,... but its location is tricky. I would like it as close as possible to the pommel.
    That's to say that the edge of the switch will almost touch the beginning of the threads. As for the box screws, I plan to solder the box (cold soldering glue) so the rear screw won't go through the threads.
    My problem is : -where can I locate the speaker ? In the following plan, I've separeted it from the soundboard, battery ,
    -The location of the battery forces me to open the hilt from the front each time I change the batteries (note that I'm not planning to make a rechargeable for now).

    As I've never made a saber with a switch so close to the pommel. I've find it challenging but must admit I'm in a need of advice, suggestions and ideas.My only guideline is switch box at the rear and no rechargeable battery.
    Note Don't pay attention to the wiring.
    Thx
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  2. #2
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    Reverse sound.
    All n00bs READ these first (PLEASE)!!!:1. LDM's Basic Saber-build Step-by-Step Tutorial 1A. Maul's Saber Dictionary 1B. THREAD INDEX 1C. Econo Sound Diagrams
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  3. #3

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    LDM is right...as usual...reverse sound FTW.

  4. #4

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    You could also reverse your sound card and battery pack and use a speaker mount... obviously reverse sound being the superior option (but if you don't want to mod the parts for sound, its another option.)
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    "Just get one and go nuts, that's how this hobby works. Get stuff. Go nuts. Period." ~FenderBender~

  5. #5

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    Thank you all, I didn't expect that option.
    So, if I understand well, the battery with speaker installed toward the blade holder will be fine ?
    I suppose that means drilling some holes in the choke for sound, that shouldn't be a problem, well, in fact, it's a more compact and logic design (and makes a huge resonance chamber).
    In that case, I'd maybe try to gain space sliding the soundboard (anakin fx) backward below the illuminated switch. ( if enough room)
    If I put a combo TCSS speaker/battery like in the following plan, will there be enough room in the diameter section to let the led wires pass toward the choke ?
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  6. #6

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    Quote Originally Posted by Vlad Doon View Post
    Thank you all, I didn't expect that option.
    So, if I understand well, the battery with speaker installed toward the blade holder will be fine ?
    I suppose that means drilling some holes in the choke for sound, that shouldn't be a problem, well, in fact, it's a more compact and logic design (and makes a huge resonance chamber).
    In that case, I'd maybe try to gain space sliding the soundboard (anakin fx) backward below the illuminated switch. ( if enough room)
    If I put a combo TCSS speaker/battery like in the following plan, will there be enough room in the diameter section to let the led wires pass toward the choke ?
    You may have to modify the speaker holder a bit to get the wires to pass (there are a few posts on this) Also, your board will not fit under the illuminated switch, in fact, not much will....maybe some wire?
    Last edited by Shadar Al'Niende; 04-20-2010 at 08:38 AM.
    Every time Tim ships an order... an angel gets its wings



    "Just get one and go nuts, that's how this hobby works. Get stuff. Go nuts. Period." ~FenderBender~

  7. #7

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    Quote Originally Posted by Vlad Doon View Post
    Thank you all, I didn't expect that option.
    So, if I understand well, the battery with speaker installed toward the blade holder will be fine ?
    I suppose that means drilling some holes in the choke for sound, that shouldn't be a problem, well, in fact, it's a more compact and logic design (and makes a huge resonance chamber).
    In that case, I'd maybe try to gain space sliding the soundboard (anakin fx) backward below the illuminated switch. ( if enough room)
    If I put a combo TCSS speaker/battery like in the following plan, will there be enough room in the diameter section to let the led wires pass toward the choke ?
    Unfortunately, the male threads on the choke take up almost all of the space in the female threads of the MHS hilt section, meaning the speaker mount will not fit in that location. you'll have to use another method to put the speaker there.

    The speaker mounts are designed to work with the threads on the pommels, which are about 3/16" shorter than those found on the chokes and the ribbed extensions.

    Got a question? Start Here. Have you tried the Thread Index yet? Most questions can be answered there.

  8. #8

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jay-gon Jinn View Post
    Unfortunately, the male threads on the choke take up almost all of the space in the female threads of the MHS hilt section, meaning the speaker mount will not fit in that location. you'll have to use another method to put the speaker there.

    The speaker mounts are designed to work with the threads on the pommels, which are about 3/16" shorter than those found on the chokes and the ribbed extensions.

    Can't you modify the speaker holder OD ? Or shorten the male threads of the choke to make room? Or when the speakerholder leaves a gap between MHS parts couldn't you live with it or fill them in with something like an O-ring?

    The biggest challenge I can imagine is that chokes have such thick tube that passing the wire around the speaker through grooves in the holder and then immediately back in towards the narrow choke might be tricky.
    Last edited by Crystal Chambers; 04-20-2010 at 09:36 AM.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Crystal Chambers View Post
    Can't you modify the speaker holder OD ? Or shorten the male threads of the choke to make room? Or when the speakerholder leaves a gap between MHS parts couldn't you live with it or fill them in with something like an O-ring?

    The biggest challenge I can imagine is that chokes have such thick tube that passing the wire around the speaker through grooves in the holder and then immediately back in towards the narrow choke might be tricky.
    that is exactly how to do it. Good observation CC. As far as it being difficult to pass the wires...everything worth doing is difficult BUT it will work if he machines the delrin down and creates a couple of wire channels.
    All n00bs READ these first (PLEASE)!!!:1. LDM's Basic Saber-build Step-by-Step Tutorial 1A. Maul's Saber Dictionary 1B. THREAD INDEX 1C. Econo Sound Diagrams
    TCSS the #1 Part supplier of LDM customsabers!

  10. #10

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    Well, For the speaker that doesn't fit the front threat (thx Jay-gon for the info) I find the solution of a o ring quite interesting (thx CC) . What if I put the electronics looking backward with the speaker first, the battery and the soundcard as in the following plan (an inner chassis would ease the handling each time I get the batteries out) ?
    Anyway there will still be the problem of the wires through the speaker. Like you said LDM, it's difficult but not impossible, and it worths the try.

    Thx to you all
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