Page 3 of 4 FirstFirst 1 2 3 4 LastLast
Results 21 to 30 of 34

Thread: TCSS Translucent white 3/4" blade v. 1" UltraEdge blade

  1. #21

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Jay-gon Jinn View Post
    I got my thin-walled stock yesterday. I pieced one together using just the stock tube and a blade tip, without a diffuser, and although it lit very well, I didn't like the transparent look it had. I could see the mirror on the tip, and also the bright spot at the emitter where the led is. I'll still be using blade film in mine.
    So true but it's neat to see what it looks like empty. It's a very impressive start to a nice blade. The only down side is you wouldn't be able to get a bright core, so the other blades are still useful.
    Last edited by Crystal Chambers; 05-03-2010 at 06:01 PM.

  2. #22

    Default

    The other nice thing about the white blade, though, is if you do use clear gift wrap in them and get a few pet hairs or dirt on the film, it doesn't show as much.

    Got a question? Start Here. Have you tried the Thread Index yet? Most questions can be answered there.

  3. #23

    Default

    Alright, my blade should be here today... I'll get it built after work, and post some pics tonight...

  4. #24

    Default

    Here's one of my 1" TCSS Trans-white thin-walled blades:

    I like these a bit better than the UltraEdges from Ultrasabers. I modified the blade tip to allow it to light up, and used about 6 feet of polypropylene film as well.

    I'll take a couple of comparison pictures in a bit of the two white blades.

    EDIT:
    Here's the UltraEdge and TCSS Trans-white comparison pics I took:

    UltraEdge on top, TCSS Trans-white on the bottom.


    UltraEdge on the right, TCSS on the left.


    UltraEdge on the left, TCSS on the right.

    The UltraEdge is installed on Brass saber 2, which is running the low-bin Rebel blue from my earlier Rebel test topic, since it is about the same shade as the blue P4 running in the test stunt saber with the TCSS blade. The Rebel in BS-2 is a bit over driven at 1200ma, and the Seoul P4 is running at 1000ma in the stunt, powered by a Corbin v1 board.
    Last edited by Jay-gon Jinn; 05-06-2010 at 09:06 AM.

    Got a question? Start Here. Have you tried the Thread Index yet? Most questions can be answered there.

  5. #25

    Default

    Looks good! Is that a P4 or Rebel Jay? The saber I'm building my blade for is running a P4 white... Looking forward to seeing the results I get...


    ***Edit*** Nevermind... You edited your post with the info...
    Last edited by Jin Ke; 05-06-2010 at 09:07 AM.

  6. #26

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Jin Ke View Post
    Looks good! Is that a P4 or Rebel Jay? The saber I'm building my blade for is running a P4 white... Looking forward to seeing the results I get...


    ***Edit*** Nevermind... You edited your post with the info...
    LOL...Both!

    Got a question? Start Here. Have you tried the Thread Index yet? Most questions can be answered there.

  7. #27

    Default

    Nice pics Jay!
    Here's my new pics. Fully charged, resistored. Unfinished hilts are censored.

    The first top two are lit with a lux 3 cyan, no film, just a 3/4 mirror in a 1" thick walled trans white blade but to 34".

    The middle cyan is the same LED in a 1" thick walled blade cut to 32" with a quad wrap of film and 3-4 feet of poly-p. 3/4 mirror tip

    Lastly is the P4 white with a yellow, orange, and green TCSS discs. Same blade. It looks much more even and not even near blue in person.



    These pics were taken with no flash. The lighting was very dim from the next room. All use a 10 degree lens.
    I have 3 other LEDs but for various reasons wasn't able to get shots this weekend.

    The only thing I'm not too crazy about is the lack of texture. They almost light up too perfect. The TCSS blades with diffuser and poly-p leave an outer edge that give a nice glow when sanded and when you use blade film with/without poly-p with a sanding it makes a nice texture/core. I will definitely be using these on some of my sabers depending on the look I'm going for but I'd all too happy if they remain a permanent option from TCSS.
    Last edited by Crystal Chambers; 05-06-2010 at 09:28 AM.

  8. #28

    Default

    As stated, these blades def need a diffuser.... While they will light up decent, they are still too "see through" to use stock.... As Jay-Gon said, you can clearly see the tip and main led while lit.... As soon as I got the blade I installed the tip, and threw it on.... I'm not even gonna post any pics of it as is now... I'll put film in it later tonight, after the glue on the tip sets a bit.... I'll get up a few pics by the end of the night.... As I said before, this is for my latest build with a P4 white, so you'll see how this will look with about 4 feet of film...

  9. #29

    Default

    I totally agree regarding seeing the mirror and the LED being visible. I just think it's neat that it diffuses as well as it does and that you can't see the tube itself in a thick walled blade.

  10. #30
    Youngling
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Beyond the Outter Reaches of the Empire
    Posts
    235

    Default

    so i decided to go with the 1" thick walled Frosted White blade from the shop, I love I got it today, and Im so happy I went with that blade. I also got the mirrored tip for it. I am so happy with it, it looks fantasic.

    It needs no diffuser and its super bright.

    check out pics here (rather than posting more pics)
    http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...856#post167856

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •