RGB led not working

[snakerbot]

I recently bought parts for my saber, and wired the led. I am using http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.4530 for my led. The reviews stated that the solder pads are wired in reverse, with the led actually having a common positive, and tests by holding wires from the battery to the contacts confirms this. I'm using a single battery from http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Tr...Pack-P342.aspx as my battery. I also have a recharge port wired up.

The problem is, it doesn't work. I plugged in the charger, and the light on it turned red to indicate charging, as the manual said it would. When it got to full charge, I disconnected it, and pressed the switch, but nothing happened. Could I have blown the led out? I don't really see how, as the led is rated to 3.8 V for the blue and green, 3 for the red, and the battery puts out 3.7 V. I suppose I could have blown the red, but shouldn't the blue still work?

Here are some details about my setup:
The recharge port is wired as detailed in the stickied thread.
The positive lead goes through the switch to the positive contact (labeled as negative) on the led.
The negative lead splits, with one lead going to the blue negative on the led, and one going through a potentiometer (the blue thing) to the red negative on the led.
The potentiometer is there to dim the red so I can get a better looking purple.
The pictures don't show it, but the switch I'm using is http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/SP...utton-P44.aspx. It is the only connected to the black wires going outside the images.









I know my soldering is a little shoddy, but the battery charges, so at least it works between the recharge port and the battery.

Could it be because I'm using stranded wire?

So that's it. Anyone have any ideas of what could be wrong? Thanks in advance for any help.

[JamoUp]

yeah, that soldering is a mess, double check each connection. You linked to a momentary switch, from what I see you need a latching switch for a direct drive like that.

[Crystal Chambers]

Your wiring has me confused. You used red wires were there should be black.

The recharge port isn't wired right. The positive appear correct but you should have two negatives. Unless I'm mistaken, as I use my recharge ports the same way for resistor driven as a soundboard and both work fine for me.

I think this might be it. Since you're only using one post on your recharge port it only charges when plugged in...when unplugged the port switches to the post that is unused so there's your gap in the circuit. You need to split the two negatives and put them on separate posts. Like this http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...=recharge+port just pretend the board on this diagram goes to your switch or negative side of the circuit. I could be wrong in my assessment of your recharge wiring but it's worth a second look.

Those type of trustfires are supposed to be removed from the saber for charging. The other li-ions are good for battery packs and in hilt charging with a PCB.

You really need to color code your wires properly. It's difficult to see some of the pics. It's a bit blurry when you can see it all and using the correct colour wire would help us help you as well.

[JamoUp]

Good catch Crystal,
the recharge port wiring.

Hello again

hook up your switch line to the "board" part of the port, and the other end to the negative of the LED. (latching switch)

[Crystal Chambers]

Good catch Crystal,
the recharge port wiring.


hook up your switch line to the "board" part of the port, and the other end to the negative of the LED. (latching switch)

and the part of the port that's labeled battery...do that..lol

[Jedi-Loreen]

And you should be using smaller gauge wire.

[Jay-gon Jinn]

yeah, that soldering is a mess, double check each connection. You linked to a momentary switch, from what I see you need a latching switch for a direct drive like that.

There's nothing wrong with the switch...it is a latching that also has a momentary action if you do not press it down all the way until it latches. This is a good switch to use if you're using an MR board in your saber. it doesn't power-cycle the board if you bump it like the other plastic basic switches do.

There doesn't look to me to be a problem with the wiring on the recharge port. When the charger is plugged in, it kills power to the un-used tab on the charge port, not the one he has it soldered it to.

These led's are notorious for being difficult to solder to the pads. Check your connections and make sure they are actually soldered to the pads on the led. I'd also change your wiring to a much smaller gauge....18ga. is overkill for what you are doing. 24 or 26 ga. will do just fine.

Have you checked the led with another battery source to ensure it still works? Do you have a multi-meter? If so, check the wires at the led for voltage.

[thejedilestat]

i think i know what is rong... with this led the + is really a - so switch the wires areound and it should work


it worked for me

R+ = R-
G+ = G-
B+ = B-

and the - pad is the +

hope it helps

[Lord Dottore Matto]

lestat is 100% correct. Those LEDs are marked incorrectly.

[Skottsaber]

Snakerbot, don't worry if you think that by reverse wiring your LED it is fried. A diode is kinda like a 1 way valve, it just won't work one way. Switch you battery around and see if it works.