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Thread: Wiring Double Check

  1. #1

    Default Wiring Double Check

    Hello all. So after months of lurking and getting to know a few of you, I am ready to solder up my first MHS! However, I've run into one hiccough. I've gone through the MHS LED kit tutorial (Buckpuck variant)
    (http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...ead.php?t=8536) and Recharge port hookup (the part entitled "Kill switch") (http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...ead.php?t=2235)
    and am trying to combine the two circuitries. The Buckpuck tutorial shows the black/neg from that battery going straight to the puck, and the black/neg on the Kill Switch goes to the bottom terminal. The Buckpuck tutorial shows the red/pos go from puck to switch to the battery's red/pos, while the Kill Switch shows red/pos from both the battery and board going
    to the right terminal and the board's neg going to the left.

    At first I thought the plug will simply go where the switch was in the Buckpuck tutorial, but this would of course lead to a black/neg not connecting to the Kill Switch. So I knew this was wrong. My best guess is as follows...

    Please let me know if I am correct, or if I'm totally off! (Note: I have no board yet, that will be phase 2.)


  2. #2
    Council Member
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    Obi-Dar Ke-Gnomie's Avatar
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    A picture is worth a thousand words, so I took a minute and threw this together for you.



  3. #3

    Default

    Obi-Dar you're awesome! Thanks a ton. One question. If I want the recharge port to also be a kill switch (instead of having a push toggle) would it be the same setup, but with the red wire being unbroken by the switch you drew? Or is something else required?

    Thanks again.

  4. #4
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    Obi-Dar Ke-Gnomie's Avatar
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    No problem. Happy to help.

    Yeah, if you wanted to use the removal of the kill key as your activation, just eliminate the switch from the diagram. When the kill key is in, it breaks the negative return from the puck to the batteries. When you pull the key, the path is completed.

    You might want to think about the practicality of this though. It might be awkward to turn the saber off and on all the time like that, and if you happen to lose the key, you won't be able to turn the saber off. Just something to consider.


  5. #5

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    Roger that Obi. The main reason is to have the hilt be "clean" when I'm grabbing it, and the pommel seemed the ideal place. Thanks again for the all-around great advice. Below is a pic of the front of the shroud I'm making out of brass for this saber, and a MHS Builder screenshot of what it will be on (NOT to scale LOL).


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