Lux 3 driver and MR sound

[Rocket Man]

Can the Lux 3 driver offered on this site be wired with the sound boards offered from Tim and Ultra, can they be powered by a 9 volt or is that to much power?

"There's always a bigger fish..."

[Firebird21]

Yes they can as long as you have the room for 2 C/Bs in your hilt.

The only problem is, I think the Driver is activated by a momentary switch, were as the MR S/B is activated by an On/Off switch. But I could be mistaken. I will check on that. (Edit: It appears that this is adjustable on the Driver. According to the diagram.)

As for the 9V... I'm going to have to look that one up too.

Have you read your Thread Index today?
FAQ
Official Designated TCSS Jester!

[xwingband]

Yes, they can. 9V is excessive but let me get the diagram... it will explain it all.

http://server2.uploadit.org/files/co...soundbasic.JPG

EDIT: Firebird, psst... the "driver" is corbin's board. He want's corbin's + FX board.

<center>Read the FAQ or x-wing won't be happy.
Before posting did you check the Thread Index?.

</center>

[Firebird21]

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by xwingband

EDIT: Firebird, psst... the "driver" is corbin's board. He want's corbin's + FX board.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">


What's your point?[?]
Edit: Sorry xwing, the more I read that, the more rude it sounds... I do know what he's refering to.


Edit: I don't agree with that diagram...
According to that diagram, there will be ether no clash sound or no motion sound as that is only one sensor attached to the FX board. (Ok, I just remembered that the MR S/B has hard wired motion sensors so that is a Clash sensor, specificly.) And if there are 2 clash sensors, then you would sometimes get sound FX and no Flash and so on and so forth, as they are not guaranteed to both sence the same impact every time.
I'd run the two boards in parallel with the clash sensor.

Have you read your Thread Index today?
FAQ
Official Designated TCSS Jester!

[xwingband]

I didn't make the diagram up... CORBIN made it. I wouldn't steer him wrong. You run one clash sensor and it will fry the electronics.

<center>Read the FAQ or x-wing won't be happy.
Before posting did you check the Thread Index?.

</center>

[Firebird21]

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by xwingband

You run one clash sensor and it will fry the electronics.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">


Well that would suck! [:0]


I still don't like the idea of the 2 sensors. Maybe use a relay, if there were room.

Have you read your Thread Index today?
FAQ
Official Designated TCSS Jester!

[JediMcD]

Hi everyone. First post here, but I have been around since it started. I just prefer to sit back and read everyone's posts. Thanks to everyone for what they have done thus far.

I hope this is an okay place to ask this (if not xwing you can personally beat me silly).

I have already got a 5w luxeon and the new luke sound card and pommel Tim is selling. My question is this, how should I wire it all up. I will also be using Corbin's board in the saber.

I thought about using one switch to turn on the saber and the sound, but the sound and the led use different voltages. I then thought I could put a voltage regulator in line with the sound card to keep from frying it, but it looks like Corbin says the regulator gets very hot. Then I thought I could just use a seperate 4aaa battery pack for the sound card and the 7.2v 2400mah lithium ion battery pack connected to the driver. This then requires alot of switches (one for the driver, one for crash and lockup, and one for the sound)which starts to trash up the hilt. I wish there was a cool pushbutton DPST switch to use because, that seems like it might work.

Man oh man. I got more problems than a monkey on a rock. Just kidding. Any input would be greatly appreciated. What do you all think?

[xwingband]

You can certainly run two battery packs if you have room, but it's not a great solution. Your sound and LED would run out of batteries at different times, lol.

Ask Corbin about the luke module though.

It's possible it just needs some work.

<center>Read the FAQ or x-wing won't be happy.
Before posting did you check the Thread Index?.

</center>

[Darth_Dadderall]

I've discovered that the clash sensor you can get out of the Anakin sabers has two discrete solder sets on it's pcb, allowing a savvy sabersmith to engage both the MR board and Corbin's board with one sensor.

[Aryk Ky'Ratsu]

I know this is an old topic, but Xwing said: "You run one clash sensor and it will fry the electronics."

This was in reference to running a Luke FX s/b and the Corbin driver. The diagram shows 2 clash sensors. Why would it fry the electronics to use just 1 like in the Hasbro/Corbin diagram? I thought the Hasbro is the weaker board (compared to MR), & it doesn't fry. I'm asking b/c I just found out today I can get my hands on an MR Luke s/b and would like to use it.

Another question: saw a reference somewhere that said you can select momentary or latching on the C/B itself. Is that true? I don't think so b/c Tim sells each type in the store. Just my luck, I just bought the mom C/B from him yesterday since I was planning on using a Hasbro s/b. The mom board really won't work with the MR?? Can you explain why in laymen's electronic language?

Eric