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Thread: My Darth Vader Costume

  1. #11

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    Sorry that it has been some time since my last post but I've been busy. I really do mean to get rid of the Rubies sauna suit. I hate it. I usually leave the back unzipped to help the sweating to death. I recently got a much better cape set. Next is the leather suit. I can't wait to rid myself of that walking hothouse death suit.
    My next objective is to get another Rubies Supreme helmet and remod it even better. I just made a nice alteration to my curretn Vader Helmet...modified Rubies Supreme. I went and took out the straps keeping your head in place. When you sweat, it slips and the dome becomes loose.....I hate it. I went and purchased a cheap hardhat from Lowe's, removed the plastic head harness (the one with the turn dial tightening) and installed it in my Vader helmet. Once placed correctly it works freakin great. I would suggest a sweat band still. To keep sweat out of the eyes. It just came to me one day when I was watching a show and the guy put on his hard hat and turned the dial to tighten it...I was like duh----that's perfect.
    I will have to post newer pictures of the costume. After I get a newer suit and remod a newer helmet. I'm going to make the Chestbox even more accurate by adding the swicth sliders and the rod ends. Thanks for all the kudos. It took many years in the garage to get it where it is and it's still a work in progress. If anyone is interested in Mortal Kombat, I ahve made a Scorpion and SubZero costumes....Predator is next.

  2. #12

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    Great info on mods for the rubies breathing device...I'm going to have to try it out.

    Quote Originally Posted by RayVader View Post
    The voice amp is just a $10 Gas mask voice amp I found on ebay. I just used a hotglue gun then glued the mic and box in the helmet. As far as Vader's Iron Lung sound (that's what I call it). I bought the cheap Darth Vader breathing module sold by Rubies at most costume shops. Walmart will sell it around Halloween. If you open it up there is one resistor on the Circuit board. Change it out to a 400 Ohm resistor. You can even try others. I think if you go more then 400 it won't sound right. I had a movie clip that I compared it to and kept going up in ohms until it was close as I can get it. I also removed the switch (which you have to hold to make the sound stay on) and added a simple on/off toggle switch.
    When I get time I will take pictures as I am actually modding 2 that I have for other people.
    As far as making the 3 red lights on Vader's chest box blink correctly I built a 3 bit binary count down circuit. The only thing is it is hard to get your hands on a j/k flip flop IC chip and it is CMOS or highly suseptable to being ruined by ESD or EMP. When building it you must use a grounded wrist strap.
    If anyone wants the Blink Circuit, just reply with an email address.
    All the parts are listed on the schematic and most can be bought at my favorite sight for cheap electronic parts: minimum of $10 order. http://www.goldmine-elec.com/

  3. #13

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    any more progress?? you get ahold of LA on ebay for a leather bodysuit? thats a cost WELL worth it. i went with the phased cooling vest inside my rubbie sauna suit, only last 3 hours and your dieing again. not really worth the cost, i paid 80 some odd for my vest.



    Lan-Ed-Tul
    The Brotherhood Of The Sith
    SL 6208 501st legion & SLD
    TK-6208

    You dont know the POWER, of the dark side.......
    Proud member of the FSM!!

  4. #14

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    I've had the exact same issues with the Rubies' suit, but the thing has literally paid for itself in 2 years (costume contests are no longer a contest, lol) ... but I would LOVE to see the mods that you've made to the helmet, if you've got some pictures! I've been wanting to close the back of my helmet off for a while ... I actually offered a guy $300 for his medical neck brace with a skull plate on the back to make this happen ... but he said no he needed it lol....
    All the spaces in between, in the flow of dreams and energy, the scars in the force ... I am at the heart of the void....

  5. #15

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    try getting ahold of jedijeffrey, hes the one i got my brace off of thats on my NorthGlass FG ROTS display lid



    Lan-Ed-Tul
    The Brotherhood Of The Sith
    SL 6208 501st legion & SLD
    TK-6208

    You dont know the POWER, of the dark side.......
    Proud member of the FSM!!

  6. #16

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    Just a tip. Small drilled holes in the top of the helm will be unseen and might help with the heat. Also with the bodysuit, the cape covers your back. You could have vent holes put in that as well, sort of like mesh.
    I built a Deadmau5 {dead mouse} helm and it was hot as hello!! But I put some small holes in it and use a thin fabric to cover the holes. looks the same but with vents!! =D
    It's an awesome Vader costume you made, even if it's hot as balz.

    OHH!!! I just thought of this, to add to the hed support issue and cooling. http://www.gelcool.com/military_page.html < check out the link!
    Last edited by Komakon; 02-09-2011 at 03:37 PM.

  7. #17

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    Nice work Ray!!
    Any chance of you sharing your circuit diagram for the properlight sequence??
    Thanks

  8. #18

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    Quote Originally Posted by johhnyjohhny View Post
    Nice work Ray!!
    Any chance of you sharing your circuit diagram for the properlight sequence??
    Thanks
    Just an FYI, you are unlikely to get a response from RayVader. He has not been on the forums since September of 2010, and this topic is over a year and a half old now. I think you may be able to get an answer to the question on your local 501st Garrison's website, though.

    Got a question? Start Here. Have you tried the Thread Index yet? Most questions can be answered there.

  9. #19
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    Yes, before you ask someone a question in an old thread, click on their name and View their Profile to see when they last logged on. If it's been more than 6 months or so since they've logged on, they probably aren't going to see your question anytime soon, if at all.
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