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Thread: The Basics of Dremel'ing Sinktubes

  1. #21

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    I've just spent a weekend dremeling away and another thing I'll add is for smaller curves in your design, drill the hole rather than cutting and then filing.





    Also, I use a set of ear protectors, cause that Dremel is LOUD.
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  2. #22

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    Quick question, does anyone else's Dremel get ridiculously hot? I had one of the 400 series, while cutting the shroud on the MHS sleeve material I burned out the motor. I replaced it with a Black and Decker and it starts getting warm to the point of not being able to use it within a few minutes. And this is with it set on the slowest to next up speed. Never had this problem with sink tubes. Just aggravating only being able to work for a few minutes at a time then having to wait a half hour for it to cool off.

  3. #23

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    I find that running a rotory tool at the highest rpm possible, with it secured in something to hold it is the best way to cut stuff. At lower rpms they can bog down more and heat up. Also most bits and wheels run smoother and bite less at high rpms.

  4. #24

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    very true they do run smoother at higher RPM but some of the dremels that I have encountered after long use the motor seems to overheat ....even on some other models after a couplke minutes of use the motor overheats ...could that be the dremel getting ready to bite the dust or just a defective model on that count .....not sure on that but they do seem to run better at higher RPM than on lower settings and don't jump as frequent either

  5. #25
    Jedi Knight
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    the 400/4000 series is prone to overheating from what i've heard, and the craftsmans are the same way. i would recommend trying a 300 series and seeing how it works for you. with mine, yeah it gets a little warm, but by that time, the metal is almost melting and burning me through my gloves at that point. ^_^
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  6. #26

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    100 series i was using its also 4+ years old too

  7. #27

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    Sunrider, thank you for the tip, cranking up the speed helped a bunch. I had always kept the rpms low since I felt I had better control, but the high speed really helped. And Azmaria, I will indeed try out the 300, though I'm gonna wait for the cheapy B&D I just picked up to die first.

  8. #28
    Jedi Padawan
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    Another fine tool to use is a Jewler's Saw. If you need to cut curves, use the Dremel to cut your straight lines then go to the saw. This will save time from sawing and get a nice curve with less finishing work. http://www.micromark.com/Jewelers-Saw,6747.html

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  9. #29

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    I've used my dremel for years on wood and wood carvings. It never heated up on me until I made my first shroud. I can't remember if I had it up on the fastest speed, but I did notice that I couldn't use it after about 10 minutes. I put it away and finished it the next morning... Glad to know I'm not the only one who has had problems. Was worried...


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  10. #30

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    It helps to not force the cut, let the blade do its work. I guess you get a feel for the wheel as it needs to move forward. Also, I use a Foredom, it's just a motor with a drive shaft basically. Much easier to hold than a Dremel. And it has a foot pedal for speed control, an option that really seems to help finer work. Just my opinion though.

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