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Thread: The Basics of Dremel'ing Sinktubes

  1. #11


    Quote Originally Posted by Skottsaber View Post
    Hmm.. wonder why you posted the safety note on the gloves when you didn't use them in the tutorials.
    Kinda one of those "Do as I say, not as I do" things.

    Actually, I only use one glove. The hand that holds the sinktube USUALLY gets the glove since the brass can get very hot while cutting. (Doesn't get as hot while sanding, which is probably why I'm not wearing a glove). Or like Fender says, you can vice it. I've tried vices but I tend to move the sinktube as much as I move the dremel. Just another way of doing I suppose.

    And yeah, the full face shield was purchased shortly after a nice hunk of brass chipped away from the rest of the tube, and smacked me right in the face. It was just a sliver... but WOW... did it hurt!!!! And of course, it was just about red hot sooooo... yeah. Now, I rarely turn on the dremel without having the facemask on.

    Glad you guys like the tutorial. Again, everyone does something different so if you have a suggestion or just another way... post it. I'd be interested in seeing how other people do it.  058

  2. #12
    Banned Sith Lord
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    the darkest places of your mind


    now you know how i feel when im lathin. expesially steel. those burning hot chips will come up and just stick to your fact. it hurts!!! lol. i had one stick to my lip once.

  3. #13


    As said before, thanks so much for posting this in depth tutorial. Ik know this newbie is going to read it over and over
    If there's a bright centre in the universe, I'm on the planet that's farthest from...

  4. #14


    Great tutorial. I love it when there are lots of pictures, they inspire me. Thanks

  5. #15


    Great guide but I'd like to add a few alternate methods.

    Another method of attaching cut pattern.
    Get it straight the first time

    Use a tape with low adhesive like painters tape to center and place the pattern on straight and then peel one half of it back. Use a light coat of spray adhesive underneath. Just enough to wet the paper evenly. Stick down first half. Peel back the second half, spray and apply. When your done cutting and filing, thinner will take off anything you can't peel/rip off.

    I strongly recommend a vice

    I also wanted to add that it is really difficult to guide a rotary tool along a cut pattern cleanly without a solid grip. Especially if you use MHS sleeve material. It has quite a kick at times and can be a bit jumpy. Using a vice is really worth some serious consideration. I've tried both and I have to advise that a vice is sooo worth it. I too turn it a lot and it's not hard. It doesn't take much pressure and you don't wanna warp the tube. Make sure you have the vice wrapped in masking tape or cloth, and it can't hurt to wrap the tube in tape in case you slip with the blade.

    Oh...I had nearly an entire reinforced cut off disc break and bounce off my safety glasses...woah...glad I wear them. Breaking discs is really common starting out and I still do it on occasion. I usually don't break reinforced ones, just wear them down.
    Last edited by Crystal Chambers; 03-24-2010 at 05:34 PM.

  6. #16


    Do any of you recommend a certain set of hand files? There are many brands, sizes and types I noticed on Amazon and was wondering which were the one's typically used for saber crafting.

    Thanks again for the very useful thread info.

    Dremel purchased and on it's way

  7. #17
    Jedi Master Kal El Rah's Avatar
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    Jul 2008
    High in the hiltops of the SIMI Valley


    Jewelers files are very good for shroud work.

  8. #18
    Jedi Council Member cardcollector's Avatar
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    ~Do what you can, with what you have, where you are.~Teddy Roosevelt

    SollusVir everywhere else... FXsabers, Youtube, etc...

  9. #19

    Default Another Dremel-fu technique

    Don't use a Dremel For many Dremel-fu operations, I use a Dremel bit is a drill press. Cutting off the threads on a sink tube is easy if you adjust the platform so that the cut line matches the cut-off wheel height in the drill press. Just slowly turn the tube on the platform and you get an ultra-square cut on the tube. I also grind grooves for o-rings in a similar fashion (tube horizontal rather than vertical). Sanding and grinding, as well as brushed aluminum techniques work equally well using Dremel bits in the drill press. I find the mass of the drill press helps to reduce kickbacks and slips.

    Unfortunately, things like the curved top of a Graflex template still require free-handing a Dremel tool.

  10. #20


    very true it does... time and patience as well as files of every size


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