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Thread: 2010 Electronic Lightsaber w/ DVD Tutorial

  1. #901

    Default Found the solution, but changed my mind.

    So after breadboarding, I'm seeing the speaker output is just way too dim for the main LED. It doesn't even light the whole blade. So I am going with the main green die off the board's LED (-) through the TIP42, and the speaker (-) for the amber flicker / red flash on clash. It actually looks pretty good. I also replaced the stock overly-sensitive swing sensor with these and put 2 at 90deg (2-axis setup) SW-200D motion sensor

    In the end, and answering my own request, it seems the following works (in software anyway) to reverse the stock LED signal behavior for a flash-on-clash effect (turning an off-state into on-state). The switch in the schematic representing the the POSITIVE leg of the Hasbro board's stock LED.
    Screen Shot 2017-04-22 at 5.56.17 PM.jpgScreen Shot 2017-04-22 at 6.06.32 PM.jpg

  2. #902


    Quote Originally Posted by clahey83 View Post
    NOOB question here... but is there a reason we cant just hook the LED into the speaker output without the transistor? i was messing around with my first build and touched the LED + to the speaker + and grounded the LED (with the resistor of course) and it was actally pretty bright! there was a SLIGHT flicker but not nearly as pronounced as the flicker you get with the transistor. i dont have a multimeter handy at the moment tio check the voltage coming through that wire but it may be the fix everybody has been looking for to eliminate that god awful flashing. thoughts anybody?
    Has someone followed up on this. Basically what is being claimed here is that those economy boards have enough amps pumping through the speaker + to power an LED. Does this method work? Has anyone measured the amps that go to the LED with this wiring (simply connect LED + with speaker +, and LED - with battery -)? Seems too good and easy to be true (one can hope though).

    I know this an old post, but I've only just begun my journey with these economy saber boards (called bladebuilders now).

  3. #903


    Saber noob here - can anyone tell me why none of the diagrams use the board positive to run accent LED's like a lighted switch or crystal chamber while running the high intensity LED for the blade off a PNP type transistor?


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