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Thread: 2010 Electronic Lightsaber w/ DVD Tutorial

  1. #821

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    Hey PaPa Fozzy; think you could post a diagram of this method? I absolutely love the flicker with the transistor, but I just can't live with how dim the blade is.

  2. #822

  3. #823

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    Before going into my saber i just want to double check. Is the Speaker Driven Setup 100% correct? I don't want to detroy my board.

  4. #824

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    Yes. It works well. It just does not produce as much light as the other diagrams

  5. #825

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    Need a check of my wiring please. This is my first post so hopefully the photo worked.

    I'm using the diagram from the first page of the post, the one with the 7.2 V battery pack, recharge port, illuminated mom AV, TIP 42, and regulator. Instead of wiring the AV LED in parallel with the main LED, I moved the + AV LED wire so that it will light up when the kill key is removed. At least I think I did. I'm still new at this and don't want to fry my sound board (2010 Hasbro Vader). I'm using a 7.2 V Li-Ion but I have the correct resistors (4.7 Ohm 10 W for the P4 and 220 Ohm 1/4 W for the AV LED).

    I wired the LEDs in parallel last night and was getting some LED output (on both LEDs) when the kill key is removed. They got brighter when the board was activated and dim again when it was turned off. I check the wiring setup multiple times and it's the same as the diagram. Is the circuit grounding somewhere? I can't see any spots but it's installed in a sled and it's not all visible. Where should I be looking for the problem?


  6. #826

  7. #827

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    Quote Originally Posted by PaPa_FoZzY View Post
    the most I'd put to that board is 6volts
    A 7.4V pack is perfectly fine when using the 5V regulator.

  8. #828

  9. #829

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    Quote Originally Posted by dgregory View Post
    Need a check of my wiring please. This is my first post so hopefully the photo worked.

    I'm using the diagram from the first page of the post, the one with the 7.2 V battery pack, recharge port, illuminated mom AV, TIP 42, and regulator. Instead of wiring the AV LED in parallel with the main LED, I moved the + AV LED wire so that it will light up when the kill key is removed. At least I think I did. I'm still new at this and don't want to fry my sound board (2010 Hasbro Vader). I'm using a 7.2 V Li-Ion but I have the correct resistors (4.7 Ohm 10 W for the P4 and 220 Ohm 1/4 W for the AV LED).

    I wired the LEDs in parallel last night and was getting some LED output (on both LEDs) when the kill key is removed. They got brighter when the board was activated and dim again when it was turned off. I check the wiring setup multiple times and it's the same as the diagram. Is the circuit grounding somewhere? I can't see any spots but it's installed in a sled and it's not all visible. Where should I be looking for the problem?

    Double check your wiring...chances are there is a short somewhere. The led's coming on but dimly when the kill key is pulled is a good sign of that.

    Got a question? Start Here. Have you tried the Thread Index yet? Most questions can be answered there.

  10. #830

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    Please check my wiring diagram. I'm making an LED string style blade. I don't have any problem calculating the resistors. I don't mind the flash on clash for the blade, but I don't want it for the accent LED. I posted it on another thread and had a couple of different (totally different) responses. Please help. This is my first build and I am going to "go big or go home."
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