2010 Electronic Lightsaber w/ DVD Tutorial

[cardcollector]

After i wire the battery I use heatshrink to insulate it. It works quite well.

[dgdve]

Anyone notice there is a "NEW" box for the 2010 electronic lightsaber? Yes you want the ones that say electronic/NOT force feel or anything funny.. just "Star Wars Electronic Lightsaber w/included dvd".. the new box is Black in color, is on sale at Target ($16.09 usa). The website still has the old (White)box pictured so hopefully this will help anyone out there who is confused..

I have opened and confirmed that this is infact the 2010 "ghetto board".. and now heres the kicker... someone asked earlier if anyone had figured out how to get it apart without destroying the plastic saber itself.. (I'd assume this jedi was going to give it to his kid or something cute and sweet.. *gag*) but... as you know Im dark side baby.. so ofcourse I split it open and put it back together and well... now you can do what you want with it(especially if you have a reciept, like me .. but even though I'm darkside I'm not stupid so please do NOT use my information to break any local or federal laws..

The only saber I was able to actually put back together 100%(well lets call its 99% since I got the guts in my hand).. was the Star Wars "Darth Vader" Electronic Lightsaber. The same one CC pictured and Video.. the trick is.. (man I wish I could post some shots)

1- Remove the 2 screws holding the Clamp/switch assembly.. Carefully pry the box open enough to remove the bubble strip(switch cover).

2- Remove Clamp

3- Use vice grips (gently...GENTLY, I cannot stress this enough!!!!) and begin to break the seal under the clamp by squeezing it(NEVER TOUCH THE EXPOSED AREA"S OF THE SABER)

4- Now take out some cutters/hacksaw/dremel...whatever.. and GENTLY cut one half of the saber into two pieces(now you can lift the top and bottom halves seperately). you will notice the "emmiter" is press fit onto the saber. lift the front half ever so slightly and begin the wiggle... (BE PATIENT!!!!) after awhile it will wiggle loose and come out of the emmiter.. NOW what you see is the board FULLY EXPOSED.. DONT TOUCH THE BOARD YET!!!!(chill, were not finished yet)

5- The bottom half of the saber is also press fit onto the pommel... lift and wiggle... wiggle, wiggle...(dude..... be gentle as the saber is flimsy now).. now once its out you can see the entire saber.. pommel and emmiter press fit onto the bottom half(the one that is still full length)... board sitting there ripe for the picking and easily removed without cutting ANYTHING but the +/- leads.. (O and remove the 2 screws as well,... moving on...)

(REMOVE THE ELECTRONICS, GET the sensor (its under the battery tray connected to the blue wires and KEEP the speaker, they suck but you never know when you need an extra)

Anyway now all you do is wiggle the pieces back into the emmiter and pommel section.. replacing the Clamp/switch assembly(thus hiding your work .. you need some filler for behind the bubble switch cover.. I used a little piece of folded paper, just anything to fill in where you removed the actual switch... Done and now you can go give the saber to your kid or whatever you "good" jedi do.. Anyway the saber remains flawless(well... cosmetically speaking of course).. Anyway thanks to Card and Rhyen!! (and anyone else who helps/njoys the ghetto board)

[Bothrops]

Anyone notice there is a "NEW" box for the 2010 electronic lightsaber? Yes you want the ones that say electronic/NOT force feel or anything funny.. just "Star Wars Electronic Lightsaber w/included dvd".. the new box is Black in color, is on sale at Target ($16.09 usa). The website still has the old (White)box pictured so hopefully this will help anyone out there who is confused..

When I bought a stack a couple weeks ago, I happened to get both box types. Here's a pic:


Far as I can tell the products are identical, but I haven't ripped them apart yet. When I do I'll try to take some shots to reinforce dvdge's description.

[Rhyen Skytracker]

Yep, those are the same exact boards. The Obi is the skinny one and all of the rest are the same size, including the Yoda. If you have a saber where you need to put the soundboard in the ribbed extension then you need to use the Obi board. The other boards will only fit in the 1.25" ID MHS parts.

[erahard]

Sorry Cardcollector, but I did not understand what you mean. If you wrap the battery with heatshrink, I see it difficult to recharge it later. Could you please tell me how you hold a single protected Trustfire?

Thanks.

[RevengeoftheSeth]

I think he means with the recharge port vs putting it in a battery charger.

[erahard]

If that is what he means, I wasn´t planning to recharge them in-hilt but to be able to remove them and recharge it outside. So I should be able to easily remove the battery while also holding it inside the hilt. Any ideas?

[cardcollector]

Sorry Cardcollector, but I did not understand what you mean. If you wrap the battery with heatshrink, I see it difficult to recharge it later. Could you please tell me how you hold a single protected Trustfire?

Thanks.

I meant if you use a recharge port with the battery it would work great.

[Er Dan Gill]

I just picked up a couple of these, and was wondering if anyone has used one with the driver and add on boards?

[Rhyen Skytracker]

When making rechargable battery packs and having batteries inside a metal hilt you need to protect them. They make very thin heat shrink that is made for making battery packs. Here is one with clear heat shrink http://saberconcepts.50.forumer.com/...f3de8668b5805e and one with 6 AAA NiMH batteries using the green heat shrink http://saberconcepts.50.forumer.com/....php?f=3&t=107 these were some of my first battery packs and as you can see they are not too hard to make. Now that I have made a few I learned a few little tips and tricks to making them look better and fit in tighter spaces. When making battery packs you need to get the batteries as dead center to each other as you can when you solder them to take up less room.