2010 Electronic Lightsaber w/ DVD Tutorial

[Rhyen Skytracker]

The size of resistor is determined by the battery solution and LED. You need to figure out which batteries you are using before picking the resistor.

[supersith]

ok...I was using this kit
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Bu...-Kit-P469.aspx

the resistor is the one that is recommened for the Seoul P4 Red or will the 3.3 work just fine

[Outside Enemy]

Ok I wired my Vader with my led just as Outside enemy except
1. I caught the wire mistake and didnt make it (heheh its still a usefull diagram)
2. Using AA battery holder ( thanks TCSS)
3. Since Im using a Red P4 a 4.7 Ohm 3 Watt resistor is recommended
(http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/wi...er/wiring.aspx) since Im not sure about electi-ish I dont know what type of batteries do I use or do they not matter.

Just a note (in case anyone searches this thread in the future): the diagram is corrected in post 391 (http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...&postcount=391)

While I'm at it, let me go back to Andro's question, which I don't think was answered in the thread (post 390): looking at my diagram, where would a buckpuck fit into this? I'm several years removed from having practical knowledge of electronics, but I'm going to take a stab at it... would a 4-wire buckpuck be wired as follows:

VIN+ to transistor collector
VIN- to battery -
LED+ to led+
LED- to led-

Is that even close to correct? I'm fine with Maxwell's equations, but when it comes to the more practical questions, I'm way out of touch, haha. I'd imagine that Andro isn't the only one who might ever have this question, so I didn't want to let it go unaddressed by the masters

[Rhyen Skytracker]

V+ goes to emitter
LED + goes to collector
V- goes to LED -
LED - output on the board goes to the base of the transistor.

[Outside Enemy]

V+ goes to emitter
LED + goes to collector
V- goes to LED -
LED - output on the board goes to the base of the transistor.

That's why we ask

[Rhyen Skytracker]

We are glad you ask, that way you can learn the correct way to do it. We are here to help however we can. (As long as you are willing to help yourself too.)

[Arkhan]

I decided to alter my Cleopatra saber from using a reed relay to using the transistor method, mostly as a learning experience.

I picked up a tip42 at RShack. I am getting good function, EXCEPT

Even when the board is turned OFF, there is some LED output.

I thought maybe the ground to the LED- on the board was perhaps leaky, so I removed that wire all together from the transistor.

STILL LED output. Just the + line from the battery, and the line OUT to the LED-, and there is current. Not as much as when the board is ON, but its definitely there

Possible that I damaged the transistor during soldering?
Possible it was bad in the package?

I have another transistor of the same type, and I'll try it after work.

[Rhyen Skytracker]

Are you sure the board Led out - goes to the base an the batt + goes to the transistor emitter and the LED + goes through a resistor and goes to the transistor collector? The LED - should go to the Batt -.

[Arkhan]

on the Tip42g, headsink down, epoxy UP, transistor leads in hand.

Left pin to BOARD summed LED-
Middle pin to power resistor (and continuing to Rebel+)
Right pin to BATTERY+

Rebel- back to Battery-

Board LED+ not connected.

correct?

strange thing is, doesn't matter if I have the BASE connected to anything, the Rebel still has some current to it.

[Rhyen Skytracker]

That is the correct wiring of the transistor. I figured you had it right anyway, but I had to ask. The only thing I can think of is there is a short on the ground somewhere creating a loop for feedback. I have never had problems with this set up before.