2010 Electronic Lightsaber w/ DVD Tutorial

[cardcollector]

The purpose of the transistor is to allow for the LED to perform the flash on clash and flash on startup effects.

This is incorrect. The saber will have flash on clash whether you use a transistor or not. The transistor does not effect that.

A transistor's intended purpose is to act as a flood gate by using a small amount of electricity to control a larger amount of electricity (like an amplifier). When it is triggered, it unleashes the larger amount. In our case, we are using it in the opposite way it was intended. We are leaving the flood gates open normally, and using the negative poles to close the flood gates to cut off the electricy for the 'flash' effect.

You first sentence is dead on. That is exactly what we are doing.

However, the reason we use the transistor is not to acheive the flash on clash (you have that already before you use the transistor) but to increase to current (ma) to the LED so it will be bright.

Answers in red. Hey Seth, I know you are trying to be helpful, and I did this too a while ago, but please please please make sure that the advice you are giving is 100% true.

[Andro]

I'm sure this is here somewhere, but searching is being a pain. So, I'm getting ready to begin wiring, and I'm using this wiring diagram. It does not show a 5v voltage regulator, but as far as I know, the 2010 boards can easily take 6v. It's not really necessary to have a 5v regulator for the 2010 Obi Wan board, is it?

[Matt Thorn]

I'm sure this is here somewhere, but searching is being a pain. So, I'm getting ready to begin wiring, and I'm using this wiring diagram. It does not show a 5v voltage regulator, but as far as I know, the 2010 boards can easily take 6v. It's not really necessary to have a 5v regulator for the 2010 Obi Wan board, is it?

You should be fine as long as you don't go over 6V.

[RevengeoftheSeth]

Answers in red. Hey Seth, I know you are trying to be helpful, and I did this too a while ago, but please please please make sure that the advice you are giving is 100% true.

You are taking my words too literally. Yes, the board controls the transistor. I already posted that in my follow-up. I was not wrong, I only left that part out because I thought it was common knowledge.

I never said that the transistor was the sole piece that caused the flash on clash. I said it 'allowed' for the flash on clash. I did also say that it was the flood gate that allowed the LED to get the power it needed from the battery (which is what you restated about getting the proper ma), so I wasn't wrong about that either.

Everything I said was true. I'll just have to not leave anything out, next time.

I'm not trying to confuse people here, but maybe it sounds better in my head that what I am putting down in writing.

[Outside Enemy]

I'm sure this is here somewhere, but searching is being a pain. So, I'm getting ready to begin wiring, and I'm using this wiring diagram. It does not show a 5v voltage regulator, but as far as I know, the 2010 boards can easily take 6v. It's not really necessary to have a 5v regulator for the 2010 Obi Wan board, is it?

You should be fine as long as you don't go over 6V.

A similar question, if I may. I'm new (first post) and I've gone through the entire thread. In the process, I've forgotten half the things I've read as I've been altering my wiring design in response to things I read, while trying to grasp the concepts involved. Please, please believe me when I say that I have tried searching the boards (which is how I came up with this diagram at all), but I would very much appreciate confirmation that the attached setup will work, or a little explanation as to why it will not work (for instance, might four fresh alkaline batteries give the board more than 6v?).

In any case, this thread has been SO HELPFUL to me. From other threads on these forums, I've been able to figure out what I'll need for constructing a simple MHS hilt, but the wiring is really throwing me (I haven't done anything with electronics since high school). My current goal is simply to construct a very basic MHS lightsaber as a prototyping build for a more complex personal saber in the future.

Thank you.

[Matt Thorn]

Welcome, Outside Enemy. Your diagram looks perfect to me. Fresh alkalines will exceed 6V, but not enough to damage the board. (The only board I know of that is so fragile is the Construction Set a.k.a. "Joe Jedi" a.k.a. 616.) It looks like you are good to go. Just be sure to wire the base, collector, and emitter on the transistor properly.

[Outside Enemy]

Welcome, Outside Enemy. Your diagram looks perfect to me. Fresh alkalines will exceed 6V, but not enough to damage the board. (The only board I know of that is so fragile is the Construction Set a.k.a. "Joe Jedi" a.k.a. 616.) It looks like you are good to go. Just be sure to wire the base, collector, and emitter on the transistor properly.

Fantastic... thank you! Again, this thread has been so very helpful. Just to confirm regarding the transistor... the first diagram in the first post has the correct connections to the C, B, E of the transistor, yes?

I guess I'll be back in a few weeks to make a proper intro post in the noob section when I have a noob lightsaber of my own.

Thanks, again.

[cardcollector]

Hey OS, Your first post was a fine one, and it appears you are well on your way.

One problem I find with your diagram is you have the Board GND going to the Battery positive. And the Board positive going to your battery negative. You need to turn your battery around so the BAttery positve is going to the board positive and the emmitter on your transistor.

You are correct in that the diagrams on the first page are the correct ones.

[Outside Enemy]

One problem I find with your diagram is you have the Board GND going to the Battery positive. And the Board positive going to your battery negative. You need to turn your battery around so the BAttery positve is going to the board positive and the emmitter on your transistor.

Ha, good call. I'd like the think that I'd have noticed that when I went to actually wire the things together... but you've saved me from a fairly embarrassing headache. Thanks!

[Andro]

And, if one were to throw a 1000mA Buckpuck into the mix, it would be wired to the LED as usual + to +, - to -, and VIN + to the collector on the transistor, and VIN - to the battery -, correct?

Oh, and thank you for the help, Matt. 6v is just fine!