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Thread: 2010 Electronic Lightsaber w/ DVD Tutorial

  1. #11
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    I thought the brown wires leading off to the sensor you have labeled as the swing sensor is the clash sensor. And the swing sensors are soldered directly to the board.
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  2. #12

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    I'm pretty sure it's the swing sensor that's attached to the brown wires. When you move the little plastic assembly that is attached to the end of the brown wires around, you can hear and fell a little ball bearing rolling around in there.

  3. #13

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    Yes the swing sensor is connected to the two brown wires, at least for the Obi-Wan this is true.

    Does anyone know if the different boards have different fonts?
    Last edited by revan1138; 02-23-2010 at 11:44 PM.
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  4. #14

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    The clash is on the board, the swing sensor is on the wires off the board as in the diagram.

    To my untrained ear, the sounds on the Vader/Anakin board are the same, but differ slightly from the Obi Wan board. I also scientifically tested this by having my wife close her eyes and listen.
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  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jedi-Loreen View Post
    I thought the brown wires leading off to the sensor you have labeled as the swing sensor is the clash sensor. And the swing sensors are soldered directly to the board.
    Yes, THe clash sensor is wired directly to the board.

    The swing sensor has the 2 brow wires.

    Anybody else metered their boards yet??
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  6. #16

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    I metered my Obi Wan board last night and I got 30ma with the negative's all spliced together. This was off a 4 aaa pack with fresh batteries.

  7. #17

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    Here is the way I used this board on one of my projects. (Cut an pasted from another discussion)

    *Note Click the picture to see a bigger version*

    Here is a picture of a 2010 Obi-Wan board after I have finished some heavy modifications.

    I first moved one of the capacitors from the top of the board to the bottom in order to give me more space on the top of the board. Then I soldered all new leads where they had the crappy cheap wire.

    I also removed the monkey head swing sensor and used a swing sensor like the one Tim sells. I mounted it horizontal to the way the saber will sit when held upright, this seems to be the way to get the best response from these sensors. I was able to solder the TCSS sensor directly to the board, I simply placed the leads from the sensor into the holes that the wires that ran to the old sensor (Monkey head) and soldered them in.

    Then I installed and wired in a 5v regulator so that I can use this with a 7.2V or 7.4V battery pack without fear of letting the blue smoke out of the sound board.

    Then I installed a PNP type power transistor to the board to act kind of like the relays people add. The transistor acts as a switch that turns on when a -V is applied to it from the negative led leads on the default board. This means that when the board would normally have flashed the lights then a larger current (Either 5v or 7.2 depending on how you wire it) will go to the new much more powerful LED.

    Works like a charm and is only 5/8" X 2" X 3/8".

    Here is a wiring diagram of the way I rigged my version up. First here is what it looks like by default when you first remove it from the plastic saber.


    Now here is how I wired in the 5V regulator and the Power Transistor



    I used: http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2062599 for a voltage regulator, although almost any 5v regulator will work fine.

    For the transistor I used: http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2062613 but there are a lot of others that would work fine.
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  8. #18

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    I appreciate all the hard work that everyone is putting into this (which I will then copy ) but, can this thread be merged with the other thread on this topic or can someone start a new one that's truly a tutorial only or collection of diagrams for this new board? It seems like there's some simultaneous posting going on between the 2 threads and it could (is) get(ing) confusing.
    Last edited by Ingchao; 03-02-2010 at 09:54 PM.
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  9. #19
    Council Member Novastar's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Azryel View Post
    I metered my Obi Wan board last night and I got 30ma with the negative's all spliced together. This was off a 4 aaa pack with fresh batteries.
    In accordance with Sunrider's earlier post... don't forget that multimeters have resistance too.

    I'm guessing yours is like mine... uh... something like 7mA of resistance or whatever. So yeah, probably around 36mA sounds right.

    Variance is to be expected too. Either way, I think we can all agree--it's best left for an INDICATOR LED... not the MAIN one, for our purposes!!!!

    LOL @ Lux III Red... [in TV announcer voice] "capable of ~1400mA!!!!" .. ... . .. . . . . . .. .

    ..... . . . . . . . powered by 36mA.

    That would be a gigantic ***FAIL***. :P
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  10. #20
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    That is super impresive! Jagahati, I moved your stuff to the first post as well...

    Quote Originally Posted by Ingchao View Post
    I appreciate all the hard work that everyone is putting into this (which I will then copy ) but, can this thread be merged with the other thread on this topic or can someone start a new one that's truly a tutorial only or collection of diagrams for this new board? It seems like there's some simultaneous posting going on between the 2 threads and it could (is) get(ing) confusing.
    I coulnd't if I wanted to.. only a mod can do that.

    This thread is for hings that definetely work, (hence the diagrams) the other thread is more of a brainstorming session...
    Got a Question? There's a thread for that...
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