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Thread: 2010 Electronic Lightsaber w/ DVD Tutorial

  1. #851

    Default Modified 2010 Ani Board Schematic / Resistor Help

    Hello All,

    I was hoping someone might be able to chime in on this modified schematic for the 2010 Ani board. I was hoping to use a Tri Cree to mix purple, but I'm still a little soft on my knowledge of Ohms Law, and electronics as a whole. I read FJK's Ohms Law post, and I've been reading everything I can possibly find on this great forum. I just need to validate that the schematic looks correct, and possible get some help with which resistors I might need for my dies.

    Here is the schematic:TriCree_AniEconoBoard_3v.jpg or Larger Pic

    My math is as follows based on the specs from the Tri Cree product page in the store:

    Battery is 3.7v

    Red Cree
    80.6 Minimum Luminous Flux @ 350mA
    Forward Voltage @1000mA = 2.59v

    Royal Blue Cree
    600mW Minimum Radiant Flux @ 350mA
    Forward Voltage @1000mA = 3.41v

    RED: 3.7v - 2.59v = 1.11 ohms and 1.11ohms * 1amp^2 = 1.11watts for a 1.2ohm 1.25watt resistor - of which I was looking at the 1.2 ohm 3watt or a pot to dial-in the amount of red for the shade of purple I like... but I'm uncertain of what to go with.

    RBLUE: 3.7v - 3.46v = 0.29 ohms and 0.29ohms * 1amp^2 = 0.29watts for a 0.47ohm 0.5watt resistor ...also considering that the upper voltage for the RBlue is 4v or so, would I even need to resist this? I've read several posts with yes and no answers. I would edge for caution and chose to resist, but I just want to make sure that I have the knowledge one way or the other.

    AV: I had planed on using the 20mA DynaOhm Variable Resistor

    I appreciate any time you can spare.

    Thanks again!
    Last edited by Cralii; 12-10-2015 at 03:03 PM.

  2. #852

    Default

    very interested to see response. im doing something similar and your diagram would save me from my electronic idiocy. im trying to incorporate the flicker effect for the foc. it looks like you know much more than i would so ill ask, is a 3.7v going to give you enough power to the led switch and the tri led?

  3. #853

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by rabbikalmgix View Post
    very interested to see response. im doing something similar and your diagram would save me from my electronic idiocy. im trying to incorporate the flicker effect for the foc. it looks like you know much more than i would so ill ask, is a 3.7v going to give you enough power to the led switch and the tri led?
    Rabbi, I was instructed to connect one of the transistors for the LEDs to the speaker negative instead of the board led negative.

  4. #854

    Default

    Connecting to the speaker will give you the flicker effect, but the blade will lose brightness. It's a tradeoff.
    We all have to start somewhere. The journey is all the more impressive by our humble beginnings.

    http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz for the lazy man's resistor calculator!
    http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...e-to-Ohm-s-Law for getting resistor values the right way!

  5. #855

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Silver Serpent View Post
    Connecting to the speaker will give you the flicker effect, but the blade will lose brightness. It's a tradeoff.
    But with the econo boards it not the only way to get the FOC since they handle FOC by shutting the LED off for a fraction of a second? I temporarily wired the red led up to the speaker and to the battery ground, since the intended look for my purpose is a blue blade that pulses and arcs with red it works for what my son wants. I suppose if someone wanted a pure purple blade they would need to use a rBRW setup using the white as the flicker and the clash color.

  6. #856

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Silver Serpent View Post
    Connecting to the speaker will give you the flicker effect, but the blade will lose brightness. It's a tradeoff.
    I can attest to what SS is conveying if using a single LED die.

    There was discussion on the previous page or two that indicated that adding an additional PNP Type transistor and wiring a 2nd/3rd die with alternate ground to the speaker might solve the power/brightness issue for the main color and provide a FOC but with Flicker of the alternate/chosen color. Please correct me if I'm in the wrong here SS. I'm still new to this myself.

    It is something I'm planning on testing for myself; as I have a white die that is currently being unused in my purple blade.

  7. #857

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by FenixFire View Post
    But with the econo boards it not the only way to get the FOC since they handle FOC by shutting the LED off for a fraction of a second? I temporarily wired the red led up to the speaker and to the battery ground, since the intended look for my purpose is a blue blade that pulses and arcs with red it works for what my son wants. I suppose if someone wanted a pure purple blade they would need to use a rBRW setup using the white as the flicker and the clash color.
    how much of a drop in brightness? will the green still be bright while the white flickers and pops on flash?

  8. #858

    Default

    Anyone know if the 2010 boards are the same as the 2002 boards? I've got a 2002 Vader board I want to remove and rewire.

  9. #859

    Default

    Hey, Sry of this question has already been asked, but why Do I have to use aTransistor? Couldn't i only Use a resistor? Or Do I have to Use both? Sorry i am Not so good at Electronics but i have 2 2010 soundboards laying around here and i want to use them for my first lightsaber ^^
    and why not using the positiv from the board to the LED instead of from the battery, Throug the Transistor and then to the negative ? (i am refearing to the last diagram of the First page of this post)
    As some already know i am from germany, so sorry if my englisch is Not so good ^^

  10. #860

    Default

    The transistor is a gate to turn on/off the led. The board only outputs 20mA where the led needs 350mA to 1000mA. It allows you to bypass the board to put full power to the LEDs.

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