To have the accent LED light when you pull the kill key you need to make a small modification: move the red wire from the accent LED (with the resistor) from the transistor, and directly connect it battery positive (+).
To have the accent LED light when you pull the kill key you need to make a small modification: move the red wire from the accent LED (with the resistor) from the transistor, and directly connect it battery positive (+).
When you do things right, people won't be sure you've done anything at all.
Thanks thanks thanks for your help😃Originally Posted by BZWingZero
What kind of speaker should i use? Can i use auf 28mm 2W 8 Ohm speaker ?
Thanks
I have used both the Premium 28mm Speaker and the 2W 28mm Bass Speaker with the Hasbro sound cards as a drop-in replacement for their cheap speaker. Personally, I liked the sound from the premium speaker better than the bass, but both were miles ahead of Hasbro's speaker.
When you do things right, people won't be sure you've done anything at all.
I just did a build where I used both. It wasn't any louder, but it had a fuller range of sound.
Please someone have the scheme with a buckpuk and accent led?
Thanks
See instructions above for how to add the accent LED.
To use a buck puck instead (not recommended): replace the main LED+LED's resistor with the wires to the buck puck. You will not need the LED resistor with a buck puck.
Just remember, you'll need a minimum of 5v to get the buck puck to turn on. Therefore, a single-cell 3.7v battery will not be sufficient. If you go up to a two cell 7.4v, you'll need to use a voltage regulator to prevent frying the Hasbro board. Its doable, but not recommended. Hence the suggestion just to use the resistor instead of a buck puck.
When you do things right, people won't be sure you've done anything at all.
Late to the party, I know.
Have an econo obi bladebuilder board. Looks a little different than the 2010 boards I've seen so many pictures of in this thread, but I believe it's basically the same. Biggest different is only 2 wires coming off the board for the LED.
Pretty sure I have a grasp on the wiring diagram (thanks everyone for sharing all the information!).
I would like to power this with a 5volt battery (cell phone "power bank", 1amp - I use this in my stunt sabers and really like it).
Is 5v too much for the board?
Do I need the 5v regulator in the mix? Still plan to run the PNP transistor and resistor(s) for the LED - a red tri-rebel. I have a single die rebel, if that's a better idea....
Thanks!
If you're using a cellphone powerbank, it is regulated to 5v already. Although if you open it up, you'll find a standard 18650 battery and a step-up circuit to convert the battery's 3.7v to 5v for USB.
One issue you may find with the powerbank is the limited amperage it can put out. If you're set on using it, you may want to test the amperage it can deliver and make sure that's enough to get the blade as bright as you want. You will also lose quite a bit of power as heat converting from the 3.7v battery to 5v and then resistoring it down. And yes, you will still need the resistor for the LED and a transistor as the board cannot directly supply enough power to the LED.
When you do things right, people won't be sure you've done anything at all.
Hello, I have never studied electronics so I could really use a bit of help. I'm converting a 2016 darth vader sword bought at the Disney store for about $50 it isn't the collapsing type. Anyway I've looked at your diagrams and they have helped a lot!!! Thank you so much. I'm planning on using a Tri-cree with 2 x 14500 3.7v batteries in series (I'm aware of problems with lion battery packs). I have 3 questons that I hope some more experience people can answer.
This is the LED purchased here.
Red/Green/Royal Blue Cree XP-E2 CopperNova
Green Cree Part# XPEBGR-L1-0000-00G01
130 Minimum Luminous Flux @ 350mA
Forward Voltage @1000mA = 3.58v
Red Cree Part# XPEBRD-L1-0000-00901
80.6 Minimum Luminous Flux @ 350mA
Forward Voltage @1000mA = 2.59v
Royal Blue Cree Part# XPEBRY-L1-0000-00S01
650mW Minimum Radiant Flux @ 350mA
Forward Voltage @1000mA = 3.41v
This is my wiring diagram modified from one found in this thread
QI9HpLX.jpg
1. The BCD switch position (dip switch) will decide if 1, 2, or all 3 of the LED's in various combinations will be powered to make different colors. This messes up my meager understanding of resistors. So I used a resistor for each LED as in the diagram. Is this the best way?
2. According to the LED calculator I used I need the following resistors: Green 1ohm 2 watt, Red 1.2 ohm 1.2 watt, and blue 1ohm 2watt. However these calculations were done assuming a single LED. In this case I will be lighting from 1 to 3 LED depending on the switch setting. Will this be a problem?
3. What specific PNP transistor should I use for this setup? I don't know much about these at all.
Last edited by Eaglebiker; 10-31-2016 at 01:05 PM.
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