2010 Electronic Lightsaber w/ DVD Tutorial

**Rhyen Skytracker** · 06-06-2010, 09:12 PM

Are you using the Force Action lightsaber board or using the new 2010 Hasbro boards. The 2010 Hasbro lightsaber hilts are a lot thinner that the older models. It is with the 2010 models people are having problems with, the relay works great with the older models. I personally have not tried a relay with the 2010 models, I use the transistor set up with them.

**Noyl Wendor** · 06-06-2010, 09:28 PM

I'm using the 2010 Hasbro board (new) Obi-wan's to be exact. The LED set up on this one is not connected to the board. Much easier.
So far I have no trouble using the Reed Relay that borax set a link to in his post. My saber is still going and my P4 is still very bright.

**dj2rbo** · 06-07-2010, 12:00 AM

Originally Posted by Noyl Wendor

I'm using the 2010 Hasbro board (new) Obi-wan's to be exact. The LED set up on this one is not connected to the board. Much easier.
So far I have no trouble using the Reed Relay that borax set a link to in his post. My saber is still going and my P4 is still very bright.

Is your setup in the saber already?? If its not can you measure how many ma is to the LED please. I did what you did before but the spst relay from the shack kept opening causing the connection to break. One thing thoughis I didnt use a resistor for a blue p4......Maybe because I was giving more than 1 amp to the LED it makes the relay act weird??? Any help is greatly appreciated.

**The Grey Elf** · 06-08-2010, 08:02 AM

Question: at $20 for the saber, plus the cost of the transistors and buckpuck (if needed), isn't that pushing the cost of this very close to an FX board (which can be gotten for $50 these days)?

**Rhyen Skytracker** · 06-08-2010, 10:33 AM

If you can get a FX board for $50 that is the way I would go. I have been having to buy the whole FX saber from $90 - $120. I don't use a buckpuck with the 2010 econo set up and the toy saber on ly cost me $16. So I am only paying just over $20 for the whole set up.

**Causa** · 06-08-2010, 10:47 AM

man I spent over 20 just on the battery pack for this thing

the plastic saber and resistor were less than $18 with tax. The 5v regulator and transistor were 3 dollars together.

Also when you get the 5v regulator from Radioshack, please note that this version:

http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2062599 which is linked to in this thread is the A model.

My local shop had the C model, which I didn't notice until I was ready to assemble. Not only does it reduce voltage to 5v regulated output, but it also only allows 1 amp max output, which makes it useless for this setup, since the board wants about an amp, and the LED I am trying to overdrive at 1200mA.

**Noyl Wendor** · 06-08-2010, 08:30 PM

Originally Posted by dj2rbo

Is your setup in the saber already?? If its not can you measure how many ma is to the LED please. I did what you did before but the spst relay from the shack kept opening causing the connection to break. One thing thoughis I didnt use a resistor for a blue p4......Maybe because I was giving more than 1 amp to the LED it makes the relay act weird??? Any help is greatly appreciated.

Yes. Set up.
I did use the resistor for the P4, I wired it into my Neg wire running from the battery splice (Y) that goes to my LED.
Haven't measured the ma to the LED yet.
I'm sure you won't have the issue again if you use the resistor. Remember to use the proper resistor for the power source you're running.
I'm running a 6v set up (for now) thats what I used when I had it wired as a direct drive. I kept that theme going.
If you need help finding the right resistor, The front of the store has a LED resistor chart that shows you what resistor to use for what power set up.