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Thread: 2010 Electronic Lightsaber w/ DVD Tutorial

  1. #881

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    1. See my signature for resistor calculations.
    2. Yes.
    3. I use TIP42c transistors that I got from Radio Shack before my local one closed.
    4. Yes, if the switch will handle 1A of current. Many DIP switches are not rated for that much current, so check the specs carefully.
    We all have to start somewhere. The journey is all the more impressive by our humble beginnings.

    http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz for the lazy man's resistor calculator!
    http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...e-to-Ohm-s-Law for getting resistor values the right way!

  2. #882

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    This is the switch I was hoping to use. http://www.grayhill.com/assets/1/7/Mech_Encoder_71.pdf
    It appears to be pretty sturdy. I'm not sure how to read the specs on it. Looks like it is good for 3 Amps if anyone else is considering it.
    Last edited by Eaglebiker; 10-31-2016 at 07:07 PM.

  3. #883

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    Carry Current:
    These switches will carry 3
    amperes with a maximum contact temperature
    rise of 20C.

    Rated:
    To make and break 125 mA at 30 Vdc
    resistive at standard conditions

  4. #884

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    Help! I finally got to wiring up my saber last night. I have a very confusing result and would like to hear any thoughts on it. For an unknown reason only the RED led lights up.

    Wiring…checked with ohm meter
    Switch…checked with ohm meter
    LED’s…checked

    I decided to effectively bypass the PNP transistor and soundboard by running a positive lead directly from the battery to the common on the rotary switch and this is where it gets interesting. When I do this all of the led’s work perfectly (it’s beautiful and bright as I switch and combine colors) UNTIL you power on the sound board at this point once again only the RED led works.

    *note This board had originally run on 3 AA batteries. My plan was to run on 3.7v lithium battery. I’m currently testing at a lower voltage of 2 AA batteries while I wait for my lithium to be delivered.
    QI9HpLX.jpg

  5. #885

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    The reds have much lower forward voltage. Since you are starting from 3V, you may not have enough forward voltage through the board for the blue and green to light.

  6. #886

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    Thanks for your input. If you are correct this could be a problem. I'm not sure the extra .7 volts from the lithium battery will change anything. I guess I will have to wait and see. I suppose I could use a separate power source for the sound, maybe a few button batteries.

  7. #887

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    I'm not sure if I should start a new thread for this question. I'm considering making my el cheapo ultimate fx sound board LOUDER. I bought a cheap amplifier on ebay and a speaker from TCSS and am going to try hooking it up and see what happens. The amp is a
    TDA2822
    •Operating voltage: 3-5V
    •Board size 41 (mm) x20 (mm)
    •Rated power: 1W 2 (1-3 inch speaker)
    •Maximum power: 1.5W 2 (which can be accessed 0.2-5W speaker)
    •Speaker Impedance: 4-32Ω
    •PA-noise ratio: ≥50dB
    •Distortion: 0.1%
    It is a stereo amplifier. And I belie ve it can be bridged to double the output power, but I don't know how to do that yet. Could someone check this wiring diagram for me please.
    s-l1600.jpg

  8. #888

    Default

    Ok, so don't try the amplifier idea. My sound board started smoking! Forget that! It is loud enough with the new speaker for TCSS anyway now.

    Unfortunately now the board is outputting power to LED even when it is off. Something fried. sigh.
    Last edited by Eaglebiker; 11-15-2016 at 08:28 PM.

  9. #889

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by rlobrecht View Post
    The reds have much lower forward voltage. Since you are starting from 3V, you may not have enough forward voltage through the board for the blue and green to light.
    You were 100% correct. The stronger batteries had it working.

  10. #890

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Eaglebiker View Post
    You were 100% correct. The stronger batteries had it working.
    Glad to hear it.

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