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Thread: 2010 Electronic Lightsaber w/ DVD Tutorial

  1. #631

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    The motion sensor's switching duration is far too short to be able to have a noticable effect on the motor.

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  2. #632
    Jedi Knight
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    i like the fact that the motor stops on blink action. like when you turn it on or off or hit something.
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  3. #633

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    but doesn't that mean that as long as the light is on without blinking and stuff it is vibrating constantly, isn't it?

  4. #634
    Jedi Knight
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tuffskull View Post
    but doesn't that mean that as long as the light is on without blinking and stuff it is vibrating constantly, isn't it?
    that's it exactly. i use tiny motors and only give them enough to fire up so it's not that much vibration. besides that, if you're dueling it'll turn on and off all the time.
    CLICK HERE FOR ALL YOUR ECONO SOUND BOARD WIRING DIAGRAM NEEDS!

    Duel - to fight someone 1 on 1. Dual - 2 of something in line with each other.
    Quote Originally Posted by Multiple People
    To Azmaria listen you should...

  5. #635

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    Quick question about batteries. Is there any advantage/disadvantage/danger to using 4 or 6 of the Li-Ion 14500 that TCSS sells? Will more batteries give me or on time between charges or just fry everything? Or am I good as long as I have that 5V transistor to transist the extra power? Or is it just a complete waste of money?
    I just read this whole thread in a little saber marathon, so i apologize in advance if I missed or misunderstood

  6. #636

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    That 5v regulator is rated to take up to 35 volts so you should be fine.

  7. #637
    Jedi Knight
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    like Tanimal said, the 5V regulator will keep your board safe. running them in series won't give you much more runtime if any though.
    CLICK HERE FOR ALL YOUR ECONO SOUND BOARD WIRING DIAGRAM NEEDS!

    Duel - to fight someone 1 on 1. Dual - 2 of something in line with each other.
    Quote Originally Posted by Multiple People
    To Azmaria listen you should...

  8. #638

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    Yeah, if you're going to do that then run them in parallel.

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    "You didn't buy a toy saber just to break it. You bought an economy sound card with a really complicated wrapping scheme." ~ Silver Serpent

  9. #639

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    Hey guys, been a while since I've posted, but I wanted to say thank you to Cardcollector for the great thread, Rhyen for the truly helpful wiring diagrams (that even solder-noobs like me can use) and Greytale for originally inspiring me to build an LED saber after seeing his Utube videos. You guys rock! I've built 2 sabers so far, (a sink tube saber first and an MHS saber for my bro's birthday) and thanks to this thread, they both work, and even charge without bursting into flames. (Heh) Many thanks! Now on to my latest project...an MHS based saber inspired by Slothfurnace's sweet, sweet Derelict. This will be my first saber with one of those illuminated AV switches. (If only I could find one of those hot Acerocket Obi Wan pommels to slap on there...)

  10. #640

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    Quote Originally Posted by Skottsaber View Post
    Yeah, if you're going to do that then run them in parallel.
    I've found lots of stuff on how to wire LEDs in parallel, but how would I do that with Lithium Ion Batteries? Does using the 7.4V pcb chip work? for a 14.8 battery pack, do I need two chips, two batteries each? Or would it be better to get a premade pack somewhere?

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