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Thread: 2010 Electronic Lightsaber w/ DVD Tutorial

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    Jedi Council Member cardcollector's Avatar
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    Default 2010 Electronic Lightsaber w/ DVD Tutorial


    Hey guys, This thread will explain almost everything you need to know about the New hasbro Sabers w/DvD

    2010 DarthVader breakdown and wiring guide
    This video shows how to tear apart, wire up the LED traces, and compares sound to other sabers. Just so you know, The board will fit in a sinktube veeeery snugly...

    Disassembly:
    These sabers are extemely hard to take apart. Hasbro didn't skimp on the glue this time. I had to use a Dremel to cut it open. You can see where everything is in the video.

    Wiring:
    This is sad. The LEDs give off the following ma and 6V
    LED 1: 7ma
    LED 2: 7ma
    LED 3: 7ma
    All LEDs- together: 21ma (yes, I triple checked!)

    BUT, all you have to do is wire in a transistor to get the proper ma to the LED.

    I am very impressed with this saber's sound, especially the swings, they are much better responsively and mixed into the idle hum, you can hear that in the video...

    So here are some wiring Diagrams...
    Just a basic circuit with a PNP type transistor.


    Here is one with a 5V regulator if you are using a 7.2V Li-ion setup.

    Credit goes to Rhyen for finding the solution to the PNP transistor problem and the following diagrams...
    7.2 V - 7.4 V with voltage regulator, recharge port and accent LED:


    7.2 V - 7.4 V with voltage vegulator and accent LED (No recharge port):


    3.7 V - 6 V with recharge port and accent LED:


    3.7 V - 6 V with recharge port (No accent LED):


    3.7 V - 6 V Basic Set up (No recharge port or accent LED)
    [/QUOTE]

    Credit goes to Boj-Vaati Mau. This setup includes a buckpuck with accent LED.


    Credit goes to skottsaber. This eliminates the Flash on clash and provides a nice flicker effect.



    Please note that several diagrams poated throughout this thread are incorrect, they have the battery going to the collector, and the LED going to the emmitter. DO NOT wire them that way. you will only get 300-400 ma as opposed to 1000-1100ma wired as the diagrams above.

    Last edited by cardcollector; 06-15-2011 at 05:21 AM.
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  2. #2
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    One note on cutting it apart - if you stick to the seams along each side and at each end you'll be fine. Just don't cut deeply else you'll clip the wiring or something more important. And its really important to stick to the seem and cut shallow at the pommel since the swing sensor and the speaker are located there.
    "This is the weapon of a Jedi Knight. Not as clumsy or random as a blaster; an elegant weapon for a more civilized age."

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    you could use the 21mA to drive an accent 'power' led or something.. no problems there..

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    There's seems to be a discrepancy about the current output.

    Quote Originally Posted by Rhyen Skytracker View Post
    I am going to see if the toys r us has it in my area, if they do I will put a meter on it tonight and let you know.

    EDIT:

    I have tested an Anakin with a 4.5 V set up (3 akaline batteries and a dummy battery in a 4 AAA pack) I was very disappointed with the results. I tested it with a blue Cree LED. Each of the stock LEDs had an individual circuit ran to it and hooked up to the Cree here are the results:

    Circuit 1: 35 mA
    Circuit 2: 34 mA
    Circuit 3: 35 mA

    Total with all 3 circuits tied together : 104 mA

    So, even though the board has decent sound you will need to use a supplimental driver. I still think it is worth using though.
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    Jedi Council Member cardcollector's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jedi-Loreen View Post
    There's seems to be a discrepancy about the current output.
    Who's right?[
    That is an anakin saber. Not an obiwan, and the rumor is that some sound differently. So I wouldn't expect them to all have equal currents.
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    Who's right?

    The one who's leads measure 0 ohms.

    Most likely the higher number.

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    I have heard that each saber has different cards in it. It all depends on which LED you test them with too. I tested mine with a cree LED and it did light up the cree a little bit so I know mine was more than 21 mA. With 21 mA the cree wouldn't hardly light up at all. I used a fluke 87 to test mine with too. I will double check next time I get a chance to verify it though.

    Live long and...I mean May the force be with you. http://saberconcepts.50.forumer.com/index.php

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    The ma rating was 21ma on my multimeter... (I checked again and don't think my multimeter is faulty)
    I was using a seoul P4 blue.

    How are you measuring your ma output rhyen?
    So how can we establish a ma rating for this board? Anybody else care to meter an obiwan board and share the results...
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    If I were to wire an led on a AV switch into this board before a relay would I want to splice all 3 of the negative leads together and connect them as one to the negative post on the switch in order to get enough juice to light the led properly? I'm using an Obi Wan board btw.

  10. #10
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    Since the AV switch is basically just another accent LED, you could use the negative before the relay and not use a resistor..

    Or add it in after the relay and use a resistor.
    Got a Question? There's a thread for that...
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