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Thread: 2010 Electronic Lightsaber w/ DVD Tutorial

  1. #51
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    Rhyen Skytracker's Avatar
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    You will have a hard time finding decent optics to work with the Tri-Rebel and get a decent even blade.

    Live long and...I mean May the force be with you. http://saberconcepts.50.forumer.com/index.php

  2. #52
    Jedi Council Member cardcollector's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dj2rbo View Post
    I would like to copy jagahati's setup, except I was going to use a recharge port, a trial rebel, and 3 li-ions. Do you guys think the voltage regulator would be okay with an extra 3.7 volts?? Thanks.
    I would not use a tri rebel. using a single rebel with the correct lense will give you a brighter blade.

    You only need one Li-ion cell to power a rebel...
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  3. #53

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    Thanks for the fast reply, I have been using them and they are my brightest sabers I have, but no sound. My real question is would the voltage regulator hold up with extra voltage without heatsinking the voltage regulator.

  4. #54
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    I don't know, usually the packaging says the max Voltage the regulator can handle...
    Got a Question? There's a thread for that...
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  5. #55

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    Quote Originally Posted by Rhyen Skytracker View Post
    I haven't measured the current to mine yet. I just hooked it up to a blue CREE. I will measure the current and post the results.

    EDIT: I just measured the current and I am having the same result. I am only getting 685 mA through the card and transistor and 2244 mA going straight through the 2 AAA battery pack. I am not sure what is going on yet.

    EDIT AGAIN: I swapped to a 4.8V AA 2300 mAh NiMH battery pack and I was able to get 1540 mA through the card and transistor. The only major downside to using ANY econo board is the time out feature where it automatically shuts off if no motion or clash after a short time period.
    waaaahhh.....Im only getting 485ma for a p4 blue with Jagahati's setup (Very confusing when actually trying to materialize the schematic....) The only difference is mine is with a recharge port. I will try now with a relay. Does anyone else have this problem. Ryhen said that he had succes with 4.8 volts?? Did you check the ma for the led after changing the battery pack to 4.8?? Thanks

    Edit. I tried the Obi Board with the reed relay but was only gettinh 1.5 vollts to the relay so it wont open. Im getting tired of this board...
    Last edited by dj2rbo; 05-14-2010 at 01:27 AM.

  6. #56

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    Anyone had succes with jagahatis way and get at leeast 1.0 amp to the led? Or with a relay? Tried both but wasnot getting enough amps or the relay wasn't opening.

  7. #57

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    I need to know a bit more about the setup. You are using a 4.8v battery pack correct? Did you use the 5v regulator like in my diagram?

    The regulator is redundant and not necessary if you are using a 4.8v battery pack. There is a chance that that is causing problems.

    Also if the transistor is wired properly it's resistance should be negligible once the sound card is turned on.

    My suggestions for troubleshooting this would be to check all your connections and insure that the transistor is getting enough voltage at the base to activate (Put all three of the negative leads from the LED's together and attach them to the base, this seems redundant but could easily be a problem).

    Beyond that I would need more information to be of much help.
    Good judgment comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgment. -Jim Horning

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  8. #58

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    So the wiriing diagram (for Cheapy Obi-wan) in this link works for the P4. Has there been any more discussion as to the use of the relay and transistor with the P4 set up (6v)?
    This set up would work then for the Lux lll on a 6v set up. You would get the same brightness from the blade with out killing your board.

  9. #59

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    Hi Guys,

    I modified Jagahati's design to use a BuckPuck(700ma), as per the picture. I get voltage measurements I don't understand. I'm no electronics expert ;p.

    The battery pack gives @8.4v (2x18650 TrustFires)

    The following table show the various readings depending on what is connected to Pin2 of the PNP transistor (BD912). The LED is a Luxeon 5.



    As you can see, with Pin2 connected directly to the battery pack(8v), I get a high voltage on Pin1 and the LED is lit whether the state of the hasbroboard is On or Off. With Pin2 connected to Pin3 of the Voltage Regulator(5V), the LED turns On and Off with the hasbroboard but is obviously very dim. With Pin2 disconnected(0v), I see the hasbroboard pull the voltage down from the expected 5v to 0v on Pin1.

    BD912 is supposed equivalent to the TIP42G Jagahati mentions in his original, plus he states that he can swap the connection to accomodate different voltages for different LEDs
    Can anyone suggest why this isn't working properly? (The spec sheet for BD912 says the maximum voltage of the emitter is 5v. Should this be higher for this setup?)

    Thanks for shedding any light (haha) on this for me.

    Attached Images Attached Images

  10. #60

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    Would the transistor for zook and jagahati's diagram be interchangeable? I'm under the impression that the Pnp type transistor from radio shack somehow limits the current to around 400-500 ma.

    Jagahati, I copied yours exctly except I added a retard port. Are you saying your led had more than 500 ma or that it just works but not as bright?
    Last edited by dj2rbo; 06-01-2010 at 04:18 PM.

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