3D - UltraMiniSaberProject (I need a new name for this)

[Rafalema]

Today I started to model an US 2.5, and when I was done, I decided to do the whole saber, to plan wiring, positioning etc...

(Not 100 % accurate scale, but as close as I can go)

Tell me, does this wiring work? (Going for NiMh in-hilt recharge, and the thing in the pommel is a guarded switch.)

My questions for this build:
1. The middle section is 5", can that "4AA holder, US 2.5 on top of it, and speaker mounted to the other side" combo fit to there?
2. Is the recharge port wired up correctly to recharge in-hilt? (last pic)

Pics
Overview (the middle section has fluting, kinda hard to see, recharge port was fixed after this rendering, it was too small.


At back (That is a guarded switch)


See-Through pic (The orange cylinders are 1.2 V NiMh batteries)


Switch wires


LED & speaker wiring


Recharge port/kill key port wiring (all other wiring hided to see it better)


As usual comment on rendering and wirings.

[Crystal Chambers]

cool...you need 2 more batteries though don't you? 4.8V

Also how would you install it without extra space for more wire and/quick connects? Twisting the MHS would tear up your wires

[Rafalema]

cool...you need 2 more batteries though don't you? 4.8V

Running red Lux III?? The store says that minimum/maximum for US 2.5 driving a Red Lux III = 4.8V/6V

[Crystal Chambers]

Running red Lux III?? The store says that minimum/maximum for US 2.5 driving a Red Lux III = 4.8V/6V

oh ...the holder hid them I thought it was only 2 batteries.

[Rafalema]

Yeah it kinda looks like only 2

[Crystal Chambers]

I totally see it now. The batteries are easier to see in the last pic...that recharge port looks difficult too. I get that it's a concept render and drawing the excess twisted wire needed would be silly but it would be hard to do.

[Rafalema]

Well, the recharge port is wired up like in this pic.



Does that work for NiMh in-hilt rechargeables?

[Crystal Chambers]

Now that I look at it. The red positives should either meet at the contact like the other wires do or make a Y connection. Y connection is the way to go I believe. I did it and it worked fine. I've only done one saber and still have trouble getting it to run stable for dueling so I know how hard "cram-fu" can be.

My point was more that to solder it and install it you need to wire it all, install wired port in hilt and slide board and batteries in. While doing this you'd feed in the main LED quick connect to where the choke will screw on. LED, heatsink and other end of quick connect slides through unassembled choke towards main hilt, connect quick connects and screw together MHS.

NIMH is all good.

I don't know why Corbin put those Y connections and nodes on the negatives. Makes it look more confusing.

[Hasid Lafre]

So when the RP is pluged in and charging it will cut power to the board and feed to the batterys only.

[Crystal Chambers]

So when the RP is pluged in and charging it will cut power to the board and feed to the batterys only.

It sounds like you're explaining Corbin's nodes on the negative wires. If so that is very misleading. It's true this diagram explains wiring for killkey cutoff, and protecting the board when charging, but forget those dumb nodes...the insertion of the plug changes which negative is carrying current and the current follows the appropriate positive Y connection.

The nodes on the negatives is to show the circuit switching in the port but it's misleading as a wiring diagram. It makes it look like ground wires or another circuit with a switch in it but it simply indicates the port function.