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Thread: Clash-on-Flash without a Crystal Focus?

  1. #71
    Jedi Knight cannibal869's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by KuroChou View Post
    I'm not totally sure on the polarity of all the wires, and the top PNP might actually need to be an NPN.
    But with this you should at least get the gist of it.

    OK I finally got it to work... kinda...

    Kurochou - if I'm not mistaken and reading the schematic correctly and understanding what you wrote earlier about how transistors work, this wiring diagram eliminates the need for a relay.

    But I'm not sure - does it address the issue of making sure the circuit is off when the board is off? I may have wired it wrong... (heck I'm still trying to wrap my brain around your lecture)
    I *am* however getting bright clash on flash like I did with the relay method, but again, part of the point was to have it simple so that the accent LED would be off when the board was off without the need for another switch. (hold on - my brain is slowly working towards a solution here)...

    God this was so much easier to understand in High School... <sigh>...

    double Edit: The NPN actually seems to be controlling the flash and at the same time reversing the signal (at least as far as I can tell).
    The PNP at the bottom doesn't seem to be needed... ???
    Last edited by cannibal869; 05-21-2010 at 04:26 PM.
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  2. #72

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    So, cannibal, any chance we can see a new video of where things stand now? I just got my transistors today, but I have a slew of other projects to finish before I can start playing with my 2010 Obi-Wan board.
    There's always a bigger fish.

  3. #73
    Jedi Knight cannibal869's Avatar
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    Hi Matt,
    actually, I'm in Vegas for my bachelor's party this weekend... So probably Monday afternoon after I recover
    but if you follow KuroChou's initial diagram but just use the lower pnp circuit, it should work. It just won't turn off once you power down.
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  4. #74

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    Quote Originally Posted by cannibal869 View Post
    Hi Matt,
    actually, I'm in Vegas for my bachelor's party this weekend... So probably Monday afternoon after I recover
    but if you follow KuroChou's initial diagram but just use the lower pnp circuit, it should work. It just won't turn off once you power down.
    You're in Vegas for a bachelor party? Just don't do anything to ruin your marriage before it begins.

    Didn't you say in your last post that the lower PNP seemed unnecessary?
    There's always a bigger fish.

  5. #75
    Jedi Knight cannibal869's Avatar
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    Wink

    yes, actually, all you need is either the pnp or the npn. Using both is kind of redundant. I'll update you Mon. Hopefully, KuroChou or Neophyl will post up something monumental in the meantime

    EDIT:

    OK, sorry took be a while to recover from Vegas...

    Here's a pic of what I had setup for this video.
    If I'm not mistaken, BOTH of the transistors shown are NPN (Darrington) transistors
    I was trying to see if I could get the thing to turn off when the soundboard is off, but again, I'm not sure it *can* be done without adding something else (latching switch?).
    I hope this pic isn't too large (sorry mods), but it might be... Hopefully you can trace out all the wires

    Either way, you can actually just remove the NPN transistor attached to the positive LED input and just attach it directly to the positive battery and still get the same result.

    Here's the video. Still getting that weird shooting sparks artifact, but it is DEFINITELY brighter. This is the brightness that you really want to shoot for!


    All in all, I suppose it might not be all that bad to have a latching switch in there somehow and then reserve two of the LED outputs from the board for accent LEDs. Might even be able to use Eastern's Lighthound mod to achieve a workable solution.

    -C

    EDIT 2: OK, so I posted 2 videos so far of this I think.... In the original one, the flashes were kinda weak (but the LED turned off with the board). If you replace the NPN transistor going to the positive LED input with a PNP transistor and wire it up just like it is in the picture above, you will get slightly brighter flashes while retaining the ability to power down the LED with the board. However, I'm not sure that this is actually bright enough to overpower the main blade LED. Honestly, the ideal brightness is shown in the second video. I'll have to do just a bit more testing - sorry.
    Last edited by cannibal869; 05-25-2010 at 11:29 PM.
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  6. #76

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    okay I am waiting on a reply from this post on a pololu (similar to LH pcb). to verify but, we may have it figured out. first I recreated cannibals experiment.
    then tied in a slider switch. no joy. economy boards wont work with a latching switch. after adding the lighthound, I got nothing. then I read that economy boards have a ground running through the switch wires and mess up the lhpcb because of this. I kept getting a warning sound from the board. so I put 2 and 2 together and came up with this.

    I am not 100% on this yet as I am missing the dpdt momentary switch. but if its good it leaves you a pos and neg on the board for an accent led. I went ahead and added in the 3 watt driver parallel on the latching pcb.
    I am not sure of that either. I hope we don't have to add another lhpcb going to the same switch leads to create the parallel circuit for the 3w driver

    Hokey religions and ancient weapons are no match for a good blaster at your side, kid.

  7. #77
    Jedi Knight cannibal869's Avatar
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    wow it's going to take me a while to digest all that.
    I'm assuming you already have a latching version of the 3w driver (hence that's why you needed the lighthound PCB)??

    well let us know what you find. I'll try to tinker with a few things on this end to see if anything else works. I also have a shroud to dremel in the meantime too.
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  8. #78

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    Quote Originally Posted by cannibal869 View Post
    wow it's going to take me a while to digest all that.
    I'm assuming you already have a latching version of the 3w driver (hence that's why you needed the lighthound PCB)??

    well let us know what you find. I'll try to tinker with a few things on this end to see if anything else works. I also have a shroud to dremel in the meantime too.
    Yes in fact its the one pictured, an actual corbin V1 if you can believe that. Regardless though, the setup needs a latching switch to turn off and on our clash light. the economy board needs a momentary.and you can't run the lighthound to the economy sound board switch cause the ground somehow interferes. seems like though I should be able to hook the ground from the switch to the LHpcb to close the loop...... hummm I wonder...,
    well doesn't matter I have to wait til Tuesday before I can order the switch. unless.......Anyway can't wait to see what our working on man. I always love your sabers."[bad imitation of the Emperor voice] The dremel-fu is strong with you."

    Hokey religions and ancient weapons are no match for a good blaster at your side, kid.

  9. #79

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    okay after further reading the LHpcb can not take the amperage of the led. so this will have to be done with the pololu board I linked to. it can take 10 amps.

    Hokey religions and ancient weapons are no match for a good blaster at your side, kid.

  10. #80

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    Okay In the end this it what I found out .The pololu board doesn't like the dpdt anti-vandal switches. It turns on but not off.so you need two switches or a dpst mom off switch in order to add the pololu board in. On a side note. I removed the npn going from the positive completely from the circuit and added in instead a low volt boost regulator. to reduce the ripple when trying to run three dies from a 7.4 source. for a more stable multi-die setup.

    Hokey religions and ancient weapons are no match for a good blaster at your side, kid.

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