View Poll Results: Which of these make the most even blade?

Voters
28. You may not vote on this poll
  • PolyPropyleen / Cellophane (Clear giftwrap)

    8 28.57%
  • Corbin

    1 3.57%
  • Nylon (TCSS style)

    1 3.57%
  • PolyP + Corbin

    6 21.43%
  • PolyP + Nylon

    2 7.14%
  • Nylon + Corbin

    1 3.57%
  • Ultra Edge

    8 28.57%
  • Frosty White Polycarbonate

    2 7.14%
  • Transparent Smoke Polycarbonate

    1 3.57%
  • >>>Sanded surface (select with ONE other option)<<<

    7 25.00%
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Thread: Most even blade poll

  1. #11

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    On my thickwalled blade I had I used a tcss tube and about 4 to 5 foot of polyP, There was very light sanding on the blade, But after dueling for 30 min you couldent tell anymore if it was sanded, if your going to sand a blade sand the inside cause it will eventually smooth out again.
    Any intelligent fool can make things bigger and more complex. - Albert Einstein

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  2. #12

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    I like to use a combo of Tim's nylon diffuser, 2 wraps of Corbin film, and about 4-5 f of poly P.

    That is the most even combo I've seen.

    In my experience:

    Poly P alone-illuminates the outer edge of the blade film, but the inside is darker.

    Corbin alone focuses the light more towards the middle for a core like effect, but sacrifices even-ness (noticeable hilt flare).

    Nylon diffuser alone has the brightness even from side to side, but gradually dims up and down (along the le3ngth.

    I just put em all together, and I can barely notice any difference along the length or width of the blade.

  3. #13
    Force Aware noslenpar's Avatar
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    How common is the use of a mirror at the tip of the blade? and does that improve evenness? or result in bright spots at the base and tip with a dimmer middle?

    Has anyone ever tried other types of film like acetate or mylar?
    Last edited by noslenpar; 02-17-2010 at 02:57 PM.

  4. #14

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    Quote Originally Posted by noslenpar View Post
    How common is the use of a mirror at the tip of the blade? and does that improve evenness? or result in bright spots at the base and tip with a dimmer middle?

    Has anyone ever tried other types of film like acetate or mylar?
    To my knowledge a reflector of some kind on the tip is very common, though not always a mirror some one on here used the anti-static plastic as a reflector to allow light to pass through and light tip. It does improve the evenness in that it returns light back down the length of the blade. Otherwise the tip might light up well but the top end of the blade would be very dim depending on lenght. As far as other materials for the film don't know much there. Though you can use the spray frosting medium for glass on it to produce a frosted effect like sanding does but with out the directional issuse that sanding can create. Have heard it produces different looks depending on if you do it around the circumfrance or lenght.
    Last edited by Goltar Bias; 02-17-2010 at 05:07 PM.
    "Art is never finished, merely abandoned." Da Vinci

  5. #15

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    Filter companies like Lee and Roscolux make specific diffusion filters, that would produce an even sanded effect from the inside, with very minimal dimming. Check out any of the Rosco "frost" series; they come in multiple grain styles and diffusion levels, anywhere from the basic full, down to 1/8th. I'll likely be ordering some "chicago frost, 1/4."

  6. #16

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    With both my thickwalled blades I use mirrors cause of the thick nature of the tubes, IE It helps more.
    Any intelligent fool can make things bigger and more complex. - Albert Einstein

    Reaganomics not Obamanomics


  7. #17
    Council Member Novastar's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Crystal Chambers View Post
    ...Also maybe it's just me but it seems various LEDs types and colours react differently to various blade diffusion methods.
    It's not just you. This simply has to do with the way each diffusion material is made, and which light wavelengths are going to be "allowed through" more and which are coming through less. In most instances... this is impossible to measure unless you have some SERIOUS details about the materials themselves--or you want to go "uber-nerd" and get it all figured out with lightmeters, true darkrooms for testing and "control" samples, etc. etc. :P

    I will say:

    * I have PERSONALLY noticed that poly-pro + ______ doesn't do "as well" for Amber LEDs vs. diffusions such as the "Ultraedge" (custom-extruded white poly-carb) or the one from TCSS (inner core).

    * I have PERSONALLY noticed that a certain amount of wraps of a poly-pro setup are "better" for reds & ambers... whereas it can actually make greens and blues WORSE with too many wraps.

    * If I remember correctly from my experiments (and I'm not 'reversing' it by accident)... less wraps for greens, a larger amount for reds... but again... YOUR MILEAGE/EXPERIENCES may vary.

    And that's about as far as I've gone with all of it. After a certain point it gets to be like: "Who cares. It's bright. It's pretty even. It's fine. If I need more, I'll get a better LED and/or upgrade the batteries/mA output."
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  8. #18

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    My experience is that Ultrasabers midgrades work perfectly for them all.

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