Page 3 of 6 FirstFirst 1 2 3 4 5 ... LastLast
Results 21 to 30 of 52

Thread: PCB for 7.4 volt pack.

  1. #21
    Force Aware Causa's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    North Carolina
    Posts
    104

    Default

    When heat shrinking a rechargeable battery pack, could you heat shrink over the PCB, and just have the positive and negative wires exposed, or do you need to leave the PCB exposed, and just have tiny holes for the 5 wires coming from your two Li-Ions?

    Also..what about the positive and negative coming from the 2AA battery pack...these are useless now, since you're wiring through the circuit, just remove them?

    Also...It looks like all of the Li-Ion batteries in the store are protected, and another thread states (very clearly) not to use the PCB with protected cells. Any suggested batteries for this rechargeable battery pack setup?

  2. #22
    Council Member Novastar's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    San Jose / San Francisco, CA
    Posts
    4,082

    Default

    I'll be honest... I didn't read the entire post--I don't have time right now... (will later on though)

    * If you have INDIVIDUALLY protected cells... it is ~best~ to charge them as 3.7v individually... although you CAN do them as 7.2/7.4

    * If you have a single PCB for a set... obviously, you're best charging them for the PCB's setting. Such as 7.4v.

    * Using a unique PCB with cells that are ALREADY pre-protected is redundant and definitely NOT recommended. It may or may not cause an issue... but... I highly recommend AGAINST "double" PCBs, lol...

    It's not complicated... think of the PCB as a "driver" in a way. You have the cells... then you go through the PCB... then the PCB refers data/signals/current to your LED (load) source. All it is doing is keeping you "legit" vs. things like over-charge, over-draw, over-heating, undercharge, short circuit, etc. etc.

    Li-Ion PCBs are tiny, simple drivers that control what the heck is going on.
    ~~ GREYTALE NOVASTAR (Writer, Director, Choreographer, Sound Designer, Actor, Saber Designer, Vocal Artist)
    ~~ Balance of Power, EP I: "Into The Lion's Den"
    ~~ Balance of Power, EP II: "Ashes of The Phoenix"
    ~~ The Crystal Focus Sound CD Compendiums... are HERE! ~~
    ~~ Nova & Caine's Staged Combat System... comin' SOON!
    ~~ Crystal Focus Wiring Guide

  3. #23
    Banned Sith Lord
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    the darkest places of your mind
    Posts
    1,873

    Default

    deffinately found out it caused problems. once i removed the second PCB it worked fine. and it recharges fine to. no problems, plus eco has a similar set up and it never gave him problems either.

  4. #24
    Force Aware Causa's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    North Carolina
    Posts
    104

    Default

    Okay guys, I am really grateful for the time that you guys spend answering questions on the forums, that you don't really have to, since you've got the knowledge you were after.


    That being said: I was waiting for Nova to read my post and then update his reply, but that's two replies now that both avoid the content of my post.

    I have read 3-4 topics on the PCB and I understand what it does, I wasn't confused on that point even before Nova re-capped his answer from the previous page. In fact my first post in this thread linked back to another topic where that was discussed at length. My question refers to making battery packs with the PCB.

    I have read through every thread in the index and through most tutorials. I thought that I saw a tutorial on battery pack making, but I haven't been able to find it again. The recharge port tutorial refers to rechargeable battery packs that aren't sold anymore, so it's of little help for this particular issue. I've done a lot of searching on this topic, even using the Google site specific search rather than the built in forum search.

    I'm listing all of this because it is very irritating to get a response like "you obviously haven't read." When I read upwards of 6 solid hours per day on these forums, taking notes, saving links, and taking screenshots.


    ((sorry for the mini rant, these boards are very stressful, and certain individual members make it more-so.))

  5. #25
    Jedi Council Member cardcollector's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    I am A proud American.
    Posts
    2,567
    Blog Entries
    3

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Causa View Post
    When heat shrinking a rechargeable battery pack, could you heat shrink over the PCB, and just have the positive and negative wires exposed, or do you need to leave the PCB exposed, and just have tiny holes for the 5 wires coming from your two Li-Ions?

    Also..what about the positive and negative coming from the 2AA battery pack...these are useless now, since you're wiring through the circuit, just remove them?

    Also...It looks like all of the Li-Ion batteries in the store are protected, and another thread states (very clearly) not to use the PCB with protected cells. Any suggested batteries for this rechargeable battery pack setup?
    I don't know if you have read this thread or not.... It should help...
    http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...ead.php?t=9546
    Got a Question? There's a thread for that...
    ~Do what you can, with what you have, where you are.~Teddy Roosevelt

    SollusVir everywhere else... FXsabers, Youtube, etc...

  6. #26
    Force Aware Causa's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    North Carolina
    Posts
    104

    Default

    Wow that is a lot closer to what I was looking for, but since he doesn't use a PCB, I still don't know if I should heat shrink it with the batteries, or to solder up the 5 connecting wires, and then heat shrink the batteries, then connect the 5 wires to the external (non-heatshrinked) PCB.

    Also I am still unsure where to find unprotected batteries. there are none listed in the TCSS store, in stock or otherwise. I think I will still use the 2AA holder (assuming the 3.7 Li-Ions fit in there...no dimensions listed in store) just because the new speaker mount is built to fit it. I'll just gut the pads and direct-solder to the batteries...or maybe once I look at it, I'll leave the pads and solder the leads directly onto them.

    Hrm...more research needed.
    Last edited by Causa; 05-05-2010 at 04:54 PM.

  7. #27

    Default

    The way the pros do it is align the cells, wrap them tight with kapton polymide tape (very thin/strong/sticky/ect. great tape which serves as a barrier protect the cells from the PCB & hold the pack together. Then put the PCB on the side of the pack & heat shrink the whole pack with that thin PCV shrink. Hope that answers your question.

  8. #28
    Force Aware Causa's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    North Carolina
    Posts
    104

    Default

    YES! thank you.

    It's not in Yoda-speak, but it's to the point

    Appreciate it.

  9. #29
    Jedi Council Member cardcollector's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    I am A proud American.
    Posts
    2,567
    Blog Entries
    3

    Default

    The ones in the tutorial already have a PCB board on them. They were put on the end of the battery when they were made at the factory...
    Got a Question? There's a thread for that...
    ~Do what you can, with what you have, where you are.~Teddy Roosevelt

    SollusVir everywhere else... FXsabers, Youtube, etc...

  10. #30
    Force Aware Causa's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    North Carolina
    Posts
    104

    Default

    Yes that's true, but in every other thread about these, they say not to ever use more than 1 protected cell Li-Ion if you're doing in-hilt recharging.

    example un : http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...ad.php?t=10631

    et deux : http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...ad.php?t=10622

    So I was looking for a recharging pack method that involved the PCB external circuit, not just pre-protected cells, the part that was confusing me was whether to include the PCB in the heatshrink with the batteries, and leave the + - running from the pack, or to have the entire circuit outside the heatshrink and have little holes for all of the wiring between the batteries and circuits.

    But the question is cleared up now

    ---------------------------------------------------------------

    okay now for what I meant to post:

    going by the wiring guide in the manufacturer's .pdf, and assuming that Jase Kala Maris' assumptions on the previous page are correct, this would be the right wiring setup for a PCB and a recharge port (wired to work with a kill switch)

    please assume that the batteries in the image are the unprotected versions. I couldn't find pictures of the 14500's that were unprotected and had the tabs on top for visual identification of the positive terminals.

    Last edited by Causa; 05-06-2010 at 08:40 AM.

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •