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Thread: MR FX sound modules schematics and discussions

  1. #11
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    VA & VB are wired in parallel (together) to the battery (+). Use the stock switch or another DPDT switch, or maybe rhyen can post how to use a spst switch...
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  2. #12

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    Quote Originally Posted by Novastar View Post
    I can't confirm if it's a Mace, but... as far as I recall, only the Mace and Luke were released in a 6AA setup.
    I can confirm that the Episode 4 Vader were also released with a 6AA setup.

  3. #13

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    Thanks for the responses, all.

    Quote Originally Posted by Lord Dottore Matto View Post
    VA & VB are wired in parallel (together) to the battery (+). Use the stock switch or another DPDT switch, or maybe rhyen can post how to use a spst switch...
    So in layman's terms, I just have to connect both the red wire (labeled "VA") and the orange wire (labeled "VB") to the positive post of the battery pack, yes?

    I was trying to figure out why this felt like déjà vu, and, then I recalled that the later Mace board (RL-547G1, 2005\JUL\20) has an identical setup, despite the fact that that board uses a 2-wire, SPST switch. Now I'm wondering if the DPDT set-up on this board is actually controlling two different circuits or if it can be simplified. Judging from what LDM said, it sounds like Rhyen knows the secret.
    There's always a bigger fish.

  4. #14
    Council Member Novastar's Avatar
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    I'm not for sure, but... it is not controlling 2 separate circuits as far as I know. The MR board is a single circuit.

    For reference--the switches on MR boards are "hard cuts" to one power line, just like when you do a latching switch on a "direct drive" or resistor-only saber. The only difference I've ever been able to make out is... on the MR board, the switch leads also must pass through some capacitor or something that triggers the final sound (poweroff).

    If you cut the power "REALLY hard"... that is... right at one of the incoming lines from the battery... it will (naturally) shut the saber off (duh)... but you'll get no powerdown sound.

    The MR boards do not seem to draw power when idle... so again, I assume the switches to be hard cuts.
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  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by matt thorn View Post
    thanks for the responses, all.



    So in layman's terms, i just have to connect both the red wire (labeled "va") and the orange wire (labeled "vb") to the positive post of the battery pack, yes?
    yes...
    All n00bs READ these first (PLEASE)!!!:1. LDM's Basic Saber-build Step-by-Step Tutorial 1A. Maul's Saber Dictionary 1B. THREAD INDEX 1C. Econo Sound Diagrams
    TCSS the #1 Part supplier of LDM customsabers!

  6. #16

    Default How to adapt this soundboard?

    Here I post some pictures of a soundboard from a 2003 FX Luke's ROTJ saber by Master Replicas (EL blade). I bought it from one of my friends recently to use it in an MHS Luxeon 3 LED saber that I'm working on.

    It differs from the 2005 model in some details and there are few things that I'm not very sure about and really could use some advice... (even though it seems similar to what you have been going over in case of that Mace Windu soundboard)

    -First thing is the battery/speaker wiring (picture 2 and 3), those transposed cables on the battery counterpart and speaker cross-wired to the original battery holder flustered me a little, would it be ok to re-wire it separately (for stand-alone battery packs)? The red and brown cable (pic. 2) is for the battery, orange and yellow one for the speaker... am I right?
    -The second thing is the switch- what about these four cables? How to wire them to an SPST Latching Guarded switch that I originally bought for my saber?
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    Last edited by PhanTomCZ; 06-29-2009 at 05:27 PM.
    "A lightsaber... the great weapon of mighty Jedi knights... an energy blade that once made the darksiders tremble. Now, in my hands, the lightsaber is no more the a... tool."
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  7. #17

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    Quote Originally Posted by PhanTomCZ View Post
    Here I post some pictures of a soundboard from a 2003 FX Luke's ROTJ saber by Master Replicas (EL blade). I bought it from one of my friends recently to use it in an MHS Luxeon 3 LED saber that I'm working on.

    It differs from the 2005 model in some details and there are few things that I'm not very sure about and really could use some advice... (even though it seems similar to what you have been going over in case of that Mace Windu soundboard)

    -First thing is the battery/speaker wiring (picture 2 and 3), those transposed cables on the battery counterpart and speaker cross-wired to the original battery holder flustered me a little, would it be ok to re-wire it separately (for stand-alone battery packs)? The red and brown cable (pic. 2) is for the battery, orange and yellow one for the speaker... am I right?
    -The second thing is the switch- what about these four cables? How to wire them to an SPST Latching Guarded switch that I originally bought for my saber?
    PhantomCZ, everything you are looking for is here.

    But before you get your hopes up, read through to the end of the thread where you will learn (spoiler alert) that I eventually gave up. In theory, it should be doable, but in practice, it's a nightmare. I was never able to get a reasonably loud enough sound from it (although it's great for dueling in libraries ), and in the end, it just wasn't worth the time, energy, and parts. Maybe someone with more electrical expertise than I could do it, but since you're not even sure what to do with the four wires from the switch, I'm guessing you are biting off more than you can chew.

    But if you want to bang your head on that wall anyway, I hope my thread on the topic proves useful, and that you have better success than I did.
    There's always a bigger fish.

  8. #18

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    That electronics from '02 AOTC Anakin is something quite different than the one I have (obviously separated EL driver and soundboard, in my '03 Luke it is together on one board and that round thing is just a connector to batteries)... but thanks a lot anyway, I will take a look on it too. I already have some ideas about how to work this out, just wanted to know if someone in there already worked with this particular type of soundboard (because I didn't find much about it in the other threads...).
    "A lightsaber... the great weapon of mighty Jedi knights... an energy blade that once made the darksiders tremble. Now, in my hands, the lightsaber is no more the a... tool."
    -Ulic Qel-Droma

  9. #19

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    Here's a diagram for a 2007 Yoda FX soundboard:



    Here it is with the clash sensor attached....if possible, solder the clash directly to the board on the bottom of the header for the blade connector. It'll make it much easier to install.

    Here's a diagram for a Vader/Maul/Anakin ROTS/Obi-wan ROTS/Luke aNH:


    Pic of a Luke ANH/Obi-wan ROTS w/better wiring diagram:


    (That's what this topic is for, guys! )
    Last edited by Jay-gon Jinn; 07-06-2009 at 10:34 AM.

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  10. #20

    Default 2005 ROTJ MR sround

    thanks to LDM im inspired to add an accent led to my Luke V2 im going to be useing one of TCSS accent leds and i dont know what Resistor to use

    LDM said to use a 220 Ohm 1/4 Watt Resistor but he used a diff led and idk what v the mr board puts out to run the led so alittle help here would be hott

    i already have the 150ohm 1/4w resistor would this work?

    this is my wireing guide thanks to LDM who placed the photos up to help



    thank you all
    Lestat
    Last edited by thejedilestat; 08-06-2009 at 02:07 AM.


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