Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 55

Thread: MR FX sound modules schematics and discussions

Hybrid View

Previous Post Previous Post   Next Post Next Post
  1. #1
    Owner of the Custom Saber shop Strydur's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    USA
    Posts
    3,520

    Default MR FX sound modules schematics and discussions



    2005 MR Luke

    Should be ran off of 4.5-6v. You do not need to use the LED output of the board. If you do use the output the LED may be ran at too high or too low of amperage.

    Tim
    The Custom Saber Shop

  2. #2

    Default Dimensions?

    If you happen to have a caliper or a ruler and sharp eye could you give me the dimensions as close to exact as possible for this board, Length, Width, Depth? I'm working on a fairly small blade and I'm hoping there's a board out there that'll fit, but not too many places (er, /none/ that I've found) have sound board dimensions, and no one else has been able to help me.

  3. #3

    Default

    I happen to have one on my bench along with a set of calipers:
    0.95" wide
    2.285" long
    0.8" tall...this measurement can vary though, depending on how you set it up.

    I took this with the way I use it, with the clash sensor hot glued to the top of the board. This measurement also included the solder points on the bottom of the board.

    Got a question? Start Here. Have you tried the Thread Index yet? Most questions can be answered there.

  4. #4

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Jay-gon Jinn View Post
    I happen to have one on my bench along with a set of calipers...
    Thank you so much. I may still be able to use a sound board if I alter my design now, but it seems unlikely. Course, I might just alter my design a bit more radically. All will be seen. Thanks again!

  5. #5
    Jedi Initiate Obi-Ben's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Columbus, Ohio
    Posts
    403

    Default

    Why so many LED wires? Which negative wire would you chose to go to the Luxon? Are the shock sensors just springs?

  6. #6
    Council Member
    Jedi Council Member
    Rhyen Skytracker's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Covington, GA
    Posts
    2,550

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Obi-Ben View Post
    Why so many LED wires? Which negative wire would you chose to go to the Luxon? Are the shock sensors just springs?
    All the negative wires are for staging the string of LEDs in the original blade, that is how it looked like a ramp up/down effect. You put all the negative wire together for a Luxeon LED. You can see how it is done here: http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?t=3 it is toward the bottom.

    Live long and...I mean May the force be with you. http://saberconcepts.50.forumer.com/index.php

  7. #7

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Obi-Ben View Post
    Are the shock sensors just springs?
    Basically yes. It's housed inside a small cylinder that's wired to the board marked Hit. You'd use this and the one marked VDD from the board as your positive LED leads.

    The rest as Rhyen says are the negatives that you'd need to combine to get your negative lead.

  8. #8

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Strydur View Post


    2005 MR Luke

    Should be ran off of 4.5-6v. You do not need to use the LED output of the board. If you do use the output the LED may be ran at too high or too low of amperage.

    Tim
    The Custom Saber Shop
    I notice the switch wires are the the same color, does that mean there is no pos/neg?
    Can I use one of these, but not illuminated?
    http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/16...itch-P720.aspx

  9. #9

    Default

    Yes, you can use that switch, but you can also wire the led in the switch to come on when the blade is activated by wiring it in parallel with one of the blade segments. Resistor appropriately, of course.

    Got a question? Start Here. Have you tried the Thread Index yet? Most questions can be answered there.

  10. #10

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Jay-gon Jinn View Post
    Yes, you can use that switch, but you can also wire the led in the switch to come on when the blade is activated by wiring it in parallel with one of the blade segments. Resistor appropriately, of course.
    Thanks Jay.

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •