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Thread: So Now I'm Really Confused... (MR FX Wiring)

  1. #1

    Question So Now I'm Really Confused... (MR FX Wiring)

    So i was going to use a US 2.5 in my saber but got a bum board with a couple bad led pads and decided to switch the guts around with my saber. I recently purchased a MR Jedi board (luke 2007) and am going to be using a P4 instead of the Lux V that i purchased.

    This is where my confusion comes in. I didn't have to worry about resistors on the accent LED's (switch and crystal chamber) when i had my US board since it regulated that for me. Now that I will be using a MR board, i had to do some re-thinking. 7.4 input is no longer an option as i would have to run my lux V (6.8 vf) right off the batteries and resistor the board (just silly) so i am going to be using a 4AA 6v setup instead. That was the main reason for replacing the lux V with a P4 (not the only reason mind you )

    So feeding the board 6v is not bad, and since the board should output somewhere in the neighborhood of 1A my P4 will be happy. Here is where i run into my problem. I need to run both of my accent LED's as well and since the MR board doesn't have "accent led pads" like the US i have had to try to figure out the wiring. Click Here for a full size view of my wiring Schematic. (forgive the crazy wiring you should be able to get the idea from there)

    I am pretty sure that what i have will work but it just looks so crazy with all the splicing i will have to do. Maybe some of you with more experience can chime in here?

    For the record, the resistor on the illuminated switch is a 150 Ohm 1/4 Watt even though i forgot to title it in the diagram.

    Thanks guys!
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    "Just get one and go nuts, that's how this hobby works. Get stuff. Go nuts. Period." ~FenderBender~

  2. #2

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    When I wire accents off fx boards, I usually splice them off of the positive led output and one of the negative outputs with a 150ohm 1/4watt resistor.

    This looks like it should work too though.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Vos Malek View Post
    When I wire accents off fx boards, I usually splice them off of the positive led output and one of the negative outputs with a 150ohm 1/4watt resistor.
    This is correct.
    All n00bs READ these first (PLEASE)!!!:1. LDM's Basic Saber-build Step-by-Step Tutorial 1A. Maul's Saber Dictionary 1B. THREAD INDEX 1C. Econo Sound Diagrams
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lord Dottore Matto View Post
    This is correct.
    And can you guess who I learned that from?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Vos Malek View Post
    And can you guess who I learned that from?
    All n00bs READ these first (PLEASE)!!!:1. LDM's Basic Saber-build Step-by-Step Tutorial 1A. Maul's Saber Dictionary 1B. THREAD INDEX 1C. Econo Sound Diagrams
    TCSS the #1 Part supplier of LDM customsabers!

  6. #6

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    so i could run 3 pos wires off the board's pos output (one for each LED) and 3 neg from the led as well? That would make things way easier... just wasn't sure where to place them.
    Every time Tim ships an order... an angel gets its wings



    "Just get one and go nuts, that's how this hobby works. Get stuff. Go nuts. Period." ~FenderBender~

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    You would have 3 wires split from the positive and 5 negative wires going to the main LED and 1 negative split to go to both the accent LEDs with resistors. Keep in mind that each of the negative wires will have 200 mA on it, so instead of overdriving your P4 at 1200 mA (with all 6 negative wires) you will be giving it the 1000 mA it is spec'd at.

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    Unless you just spliced in to the Neg's rather than taking them from the main LED. Thats what I do, as I hate the power loss from taking away Neg wires from the main.

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  9. #9

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    Quote Originally Posted by FenderBender View Post
    Unless you just spliced in to the Neg's rather than taking them from the main LED. Thats what I do, as I hate the power loss from taking away Neg wires from the main.
    I do the same, except I solder the accent negatives directly to the board, so no splicing wires.

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