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Thread: timed momentary swtiches

  1. #1

    Default timed momentary swtiches

    My knowledge of electronics is very basic and fundamental, so correct me if I'm wrong.
    My idea really only applies to boards with momentary switches.

    Wouldn't adding a fairly high uF (not high voltage) capacitor coming off the + switch lead, make it so you had to hold the switch down for a few seconds before the board would power on?
    This would completely eliminate the need for "latches", guards, and all sorts of accident prevention.

  2. #2
    Council Member Novastar's Avatar
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    Default

    It's possible, but... let's consider...

    * Most boards out there that are factory made (Force FX boards) and are basically being 'bent to the DIY LED saber-makers' will... use latching switches (the ones worth their weight in gold)

    * Once you get down to the DIY/hobby boards (Crystal Focus, Ultrasound)... it's much easier to program in the firmware a solution regarding what you're requesting... vs. add more physical components

    * Solutions are already present on the Ultrasound and CF boards...

    CF = Anti-Power-On/Off-Protection (APOP). The user must press BOTH power on/off ~AND~ the Auxiliary button to "confirm" wanting to shut the saber off. Applies to both latching and momentary switches for power on/off button. The option can be disabled, or rather... not used.

    US = Automatically waits 3-4 seconds when user presses (and holds) the power button... and shuts off. A quick tap to the button initiates the "lockup" feature.

    More "crude" solutions = Recess the power on switch so it is nearly impossible to trigger "by accident" (via pommel switch or a more "flush" switch plate). Should work ~90% of the time at the least. I've done this will most ALL of my sabers. It works pretty darn well, and only the untrained can't prevent a "misfire" (on OR off!!) 100% of the time.
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  3. #3

    Default

    I suppose I should have specified that the question was more with momentary economy boards in mind.
    I think I finally worked out what I'm doing for my activation switch anyway, but as a future reference I was curious.

    Thanks for the very informative reply anyway though.
    It'll help a lot for when I have more money to dedicate to the hobby.

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