new ideas to incorporate in design

**ARKM** · 02-14-2010, 02:19 PM

Originally Posted by Goltar Bias

Has anyone tried setting the ball on a polyc tube and seeing if it attracks the plasma?

I'll try that later today Goltar.

EDIT: Ok, I tried it on some 1" OD thick-walled polyC. The polyC barely attracted anything so using it to support the ball on either end is a good idea. However, like I have already mentioned, the ball is very large (1-13/16" OD) and will not work for certain saber applications.

On another note, I hooked up a regular 9V battery to the inverter and the plasma ball ran fine so there's another battery solution right there.

EDIT 2: It would appear that my plasma ball is now dead. I'm not sure what caused it. I tried the 9V battery twice with no problems but now neither that nor the stock batteries will power it. Maybe the 9V killed the inverter or ball. *sigh*

**KuroChou** · 02-18-2010, 11:34 PM

a VU meter would definitely make for some interesting clash effects, as though it were reading power feedback from the blade.

**Luke-SkyMarcher** · 02-19-2010, 07:27 AM

Originally Posted by ARKM

On another note, the output to the plasma ball is only one wire. Yep, you heard me... one wire. Here's the pics.

Neat eh?

I'm not quite sure about the theory behind it, but it works the same way this does:

http://www.ramseyelectronics.com/cgi...ction&key=PG13

I have one of those kits, and you can make a super-charged plasma ball simply by setting an ordinary light bulb on the one contact.
You can also get some other fun effects like sparks from a screwdriver and lighting florescent tubes without even making contact. (You bring them close to the contact, and they start glowing.)

If I remember correctly, the old neon tube "plasma sabers" worked with only one contact as well. I believe that is also how their extend/retract feature was managed.

**Sunrider** · 02-19-2010, 12:36 PM

Hey cool it's like a tiny tesla coil. If it was half that small you could try to use it. Just don't let it get on the other PCBs.

**RayVader** · 03-08-2010, 09:16 PM

All,
I have one prototype touch sensitive saber. If you rip out the guts to the cheap plastic FX lightsabers; they use a momentary switch to latch the circuit on or off. Very little electricity is needed to make it latch. What I did for my prototype was use 2 small pieces of brass tape. I wired one switch wire to the hilt housing and soldered one wire to one piece of brass tape that is isolated from the hilt. I have them really--really close together that all it takes is the very tiny current to pass through the skin and make the saber power on and off.
It works--kind of. I have to make it just a little more sensitive. I use my thumb and my skin must be clean and wet---yes sometimes I need to wet my thumb a bit....but it does work. I was thinking of using the capacitive reactive circuit used on most touch lamps. I think it would be neat to have a steel or brass thumbscrew (isolated form the hilt by nylon washers) that when you touch it, it makes the lightsaber power on/off.

Anyone have any ideas and does this sound cool? I think it makes them very unique you could even hide the touch part----Oh my--where's the on/off button---just touch here---WOW!!

RayVader

**Novastar** · 03-10-2010, 03:33 PM

Ray.. there is nothing wrong with the idea (yup, maybe takes some perfecting)... and it has been done before, it's true.

In my case, it is not something *I* would use, as... if you touch the pad/"touch switch" area while using the saber (when it's already on)... you're bound to shut it off by accident, and vice-versa.

But yeah, it's a fine idea! There are many ways to set up a switch, and many ways to recess/hide one... and sure, touch-switches are one way!

**Anakin2Solo** · 03-11-2010, 07:36 PM

I love the idea of a touch switch. I have been looking into building my own. I like the brass tape idea you used. Very original.

**RayVader** · 03-11-2010, 10:13 PM

I thought about the possible ACCIDENTS of turning it on/off. If the touch sensitive area is put somewhere other then normally you hold the saber. Maybe just keeping my original idea where you have to touch two areas to complete the circuit would help against accidental on/off.
Hmmm.
I will continue my prototyping.

I used the brass tape just as a way of "proof of concept." I am now thinking of having two isolated rivets that you touch and when your thumb touches both, the saber powers on/off. But the two rivets would just look like accents. I could even use brass rivets since brass, or even copper, are better conductors.