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Thread: New style hasbro saber!!! Please help!

  1. #111

    Default What about the Vader version?

    One thing still puzzling me....how to wire up the Vader/Anakin boards that have the lights embedded into the board? Possible or not?

  2. #112
    Jedi Council Member cardcollector's Avatar
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    Yes, Just Solder Wire leads to where to LED's were connected...
    Got a Question? There's a thread for that...
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  3. #113

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    Quote Originally Posted by cardcollector View Post
    I've made a tutorial...
    http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...ad.php?t=10288

    I guess I should've posted this here sooner...
    As I am still on the learning curve here, I assume this is a direct from Sound Board driven LED setup in this tutorial. If so, what steps, with relay and latching switches or the like, would need to be taken for a 4.5-6v setup with a direct from source driven LED (assuming Lux3/5 or Cree or along those lines)?
    Last edited by Darth Abominor; 02-23-2010 at 06:46 AM.

  4. #114
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    Quote Originally Posted by Et Kin Evenstar View Post
    One thing still puzzling me....how to wire up the Vader/Anakin boards that have the lights embedded into the board? Possible or not?

    I unsoldered the existing LEDs, removed the LED board and then soldered wires to where the board was.

    Live long and...I mean May the force be with you. http://saberconcepts.50.forumer.com/index.php

  5. #115
    Jedi Council Member cardcollector's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Darth Abominor View Post
    As I am still on the learning curve here, I assume this is a direct from Sound Board driven LED setup in this tutorial. If so, what steps, with relay and latching switches or the like, would need to be taken for a 4.5-6v setup with a direct from source driven LED (assuming Lux3/5 or Cree or along those lines)?
    No step need to be taken for the latching switches becuase you can't you latching. Only momentary.

    It all depends on the relay...
    radio shack has one, there is also a thread on relays...
    http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...ead.php?t=9642
    Got a Question? There's a thread for that...
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  6. #116

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    Quote Originally Posted by Darth Abominor View Post
    ... If so, what steps, with relay and latching switches or the like, would need to be taken for a 4.5-6v setup with a direct from source driven LED (assuming Lux3/5 or Cree or along those lines)?
    I believe he would HAVE to have a latching in that case..i think you misread
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  7. #117
    Jedi Council Member cardcollector's Avatar
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    Woopth...

    In that case yes for a lachting...

    All the other stuff is the same. (I think, my brain is so tired...)
    Last edited by cardcollector; 02-23-2010 at 08:01 PM.
    Got a Question? There's a thread for that...
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  8. #118

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    Quote Originally Posted by Shadar Al'Niende View Post
    I believe he would HAVE to have a latching in that case..i think you misread
    I would easily guess that a latching is a primary req, since it would be direct to LED driven from source.. just making sure. What I don't have any personal experience with is the use of a latching switch on a sound board meant for mom switch activation and shutdown. I assume this is where a relay comes into play to act as a temp 'click' for the source to board flow controller?
    Last edited by Darth Abominor; 02-24-2010 at 07:24 AM.

  9. #119
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    You can not use a latching switch for the card. If you are looking to direct drive the LED or use a buck puck then you need to use a relay and have the coil of the relay energized from the card LED output. You can also use a DPDT momentary switch and use one set of contacts for the sound and for the other set use a lighthound set up to convert the momentary action to a latching action.

    Here is a thread at FX-sabers on how to use a lighthound to make a momentary switch act as a latching.

    http://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/index.php?topic=22399.0

    Live long and...I mean May the force be with you. http://saberconcepts.50.forumer.com/index.php

  10. #120

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    You "may" be able to put a capacitor across the relay coil as well.... the charge may be enough to keep the relay energized while it does it's blinky-clash thing.

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