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Thread: New style hasbro saber!!! Please help!

  1. #201

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    Very curious to see what the Yoda board is like. I've not found one yet. I just posted a new build in the gallery forum that uses the Obi Wan board. Like Dakarn says, with the TCSS speaker the sound is really nice.
    Jedi Ronin. No Master, save the Force.

  2. #202

    Default I broke down...

    and bought a DV at Toys R Us. Indeed, it was 14.99 on sale, but it has that annoying LED flash for power up/down and clash. Disassembly commences in 5...4...3...2

  3. #203

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    I tried running some wires off a DV version tonight w/out luck. If anyone can post a diagram of how where to do this that'd be much appreciated! I think there should be 1 + and 3 -?

    Since the DV/Anakin version seem to be the same board w/ just different colors, I wonder if the Yoda version will be the same as the OW.
    Jedi Ronin. No Master, save the Force.

  4. #204

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    Quote Originally Posted by Et Kin Evenstar View Post
    I tried running some wires off a DV version tonight w/out luck. If anyone can post a diagram of how where to do this that'd be much appreciated! I think there should be 1 + and 3 -?

    Since the DV/Anakin version seem to be the same board w/ just different colors, I wonder if the Yoda version will be the same as the OW.
    Disassembly complete!
    The Positive is the common connection, with the Negatives separate.
    On the backside of the board you can see where the LED sub-board sticks through the main board. The wide trace right above (LEDs at the top) where the screen on the backside says "SW1" in white is the positive trace. The 3 narrow traces are the negatives. With no convenient wires or holes to attach to, desolder the LEDs on the LED sub-board and use those holes to solder wires. There appears to be no difference in the three LEDs...they flash together and power on/off together. Wiring to one of the three will do the trick. Why not a single negative trace? Beats me.

  5. #205

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    If anyone is interested, I finally got my hands on a Yoda version and cracked it open.

    1. seemed harder to open the the others.

    2. size of the board is closer to the Vader/Anakin version. More square, whereas the OW version is rectangular and skinny. It is still really small though.

    3. The LEDs on Yoda are not embedded onto the board like Vader/Anakin. They run off like the OW version.
    Jedi Ronin. No Master, save the Force.

  6. #206

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    i just want them to build a *cheap* saber without that crappy flicker ignition....
    Every time Tim ships an order... an angel gets its wings



    "Just get one and go nuts, that's how this hobby works. Get stuff. Go nuts. Period." ~FenderBender~

  7. #207

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    One more thing I missed on my Yoda version post. It does not have the switch wires coming off the board either. It is one of those that use a little button that touches the board....tactile? I'm still a noob learning the lingo! How would one wire up a momentary switch to that if you wanted to?
    Jedi Ronin. No Master, save the Force.

  8. #208

    Default

    you could most likely just de-solder the tactile switch pins and then use leads attached to where the pins went. Post a picture and we will know for sure
    Every time Tim ships an order... an angel gets its wings



    "Just get one and go nuts, that's how this hobby works. Get stuff. Go nuts. Period." ~FenderBender~

  9. #209

    Default

    Will try to post a pic at some point. I do not see any "pins." There is just a tiny round piece encased in a bit of rubber which activates the board when it touches to the lead (hope I'm using the correct term) on the board. If you remove that piecem any contact with metal activates it.
    Jedi Ronin. No Master, save the Force.

  10. #210

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    Would someone be so kind to whip up a diagram for one of the 2010 Obi hasbro sb's that has an anti-vandal momentary illuminated, 5v reed relay and the recharge.
    Normally I wouldn't ask but after going through 2 leds I know should ask for help.

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