New style hasbro saber!!! Please help!

[Caine Drathul]

posted this same thing in another thread, but since this one is still pertinent to the discussion....

I just hooked up mine with the Radio Shack 5V reed relay, and all worked great. I had an accent LED wired to the board, and it did the flash on clash effect, but not the blade...so that worked out rather well.

Thanks to all that contributed to this thread. Going to be putting one of these boards in my nephew's birthday saber.

[Jagahati]

Here is a picture of a 2010 Obi-Wan board after I have finished some heavy modifications.

I first moved one of the capacitors from the top of the board to the bottom in order to give me more space on the top of the board. Then I soldered all new leads where they had the crappy cheap wire.

I also removed the monkey head swing sensor and used a swing sensor like the one Tim sells. I mounted it horizontal to the way the saber will sit when held upright, this seems to be the way to get the best response from these sensors. I was able to solder the TCSS sensor directly to the board, I simply placed the leads from the sensor into the holes that the wires that ran to the old sensor (Monkey head) and soldered them in.

Then I installed and wired in a 5v regulator so that I can use this with a 7.2V or 7.4V battery pack without fear of letting the blue smoke out of the sound board.

Then I installed a PNP type power transistor to the board to act kind of like the relays people add. The transistor acts as a switch that turns on when a -V is applied to it from the negative led leads on the default board. This means that when the board would normally have flashed the lights then a larger current (Either 5v or 7.2 depending on how you wire it) will go to the new much more powerful LED.

Works like a charm and is only 5/8" X 2" X 3/8".

[noslenpar]

Then I installed a PNP type power transistor to the board to act kind of like the relays people add. The transistor acts as a switch that turns on when a -V is applied to it from the negative led leads on the default board. This means that when the board would normally have flashed the lights then a larger current (Either 5v or 7.2 depending on how you wire it) will go to the new much more powerful LED.

Good idea replacing the monkey head, it works a little funky on my 2010 Anakin board.

Do you have a model number and wiring digram for the transistor you used?

I remember this being mentioned on another thread, but there was no follow-up on how this would work.

[reapero0]

Will this relay work?????
http://www.thesource.ca/estore/produ...ine&tab=1#more

[TroyO]

Proabably NOT.... that's a 12v relay and the LED output is somewhere between 3-5v.

See if you can find one that is rated at 5V.

[Et Kin Evenstar]

Will this relay work?????
http://www.thesource.ca/estore/produ...ine&tab=1#more

This is the one I'm using and so far it is working:

http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2062478

If I find a couple hours I'll be done and able to post some pics/video.

[cannibal869]

Here is a picture of a 2010 Obi-Wan board after I have finished some heavy modifications.

I first moved one of the capacitors from the top of the board to the bottom in order to give me more space on the top of the board. Then I soldered all new leads where they had the crappy cheap wire.

I also removed the monkey head swing sensor and used a swing sensor like the one Tim sells. I mounted it horizontal to the way the saber will sit when held upright, this seems to be the way to get the best response from these sensors. I was able to solder the TCSS sensor directly to the board, I simply placed the leads from the sensor into the holes that the wires that ran to the old sensor (Monkey head) and soldered them in.

Then I installed and wired in a 5v regulator so that I can use this with a 7.2V or 7.4V battery pack without fear of letting the blue smoke out of the sound board.

Then I installed a PNP type power transistor to the board to act kind of like the relays people add. The transistor acts as a switch that turns on when a -V is applied to it from the negative led leads on the default board. This means that when the board would normally have flashed the lights then a larger current (Either 5v or 7.2 depending on how you wire it) will go to the new much more powerful LED.

Works like a charm and is only 5/8" X 2" X 3/8".

Strong work! Would you happen to have a link to the 5V regulator you used? Is it the 5V reed relay listed above?

Oh wait, is it this thing?

http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2062599

[Jagahati]

OK here is a wiring diagram of the way I rigged my version up. First here is what it looks like by default when you first remove it from the plastic saber.

Now here is how I wired in the 5V regulator and the Power Transistor

I used: http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2062599 for a voltage regulator, although almost any 5v regulator will work fine.

For the transistor I used: http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2062613 but there are a lot of others that would work fine.

The way I arranged it on the board it ends up looking like this:

*Note Click the picture to see a bigger version*

Hope this helps. And I may repost this in a few other places I have seen questions about this board and how to set it up.

[Jordandau]

Off of the board you have the LED + going to? And is that white rectangle on the + of the High power LED a resistor?

[Jagahati]

Off of the board you have the LED + going to? And is that white rectangle on the + of the High power LED a resistor?

Nothing.

And yes, although you could of course use a buck puck to drive the LED.