Add-on board for adjustable LED driver schematic

[Arkhan]

The "multi-die under one dome" LED allow you several options you don't get with normal single color LEDs. (the rebel tri-star has the same options, but due to the orientation of the LEDs themselves, the choices for optic lens aren't quite narrow enough for most saber usage)

You can, with some wiring tweaks, mix the 3 colors in various combinations (based on resistors). The awesome purples that folks get are based on this setup.

You can also setup a rotary switch or similar with varied resistances and cycle through color presets.

If you had a computer controlled version of the rotary switch above, you could have it cycle automatically, limited only by the circuit itself.

While only the CF has the flash on clash feature built in, you could, for instance:

Mix the Red and Blue dies together to get a purple, and then with a momentary switch, manually activate the GREEN die to simulate blade lockup or similar, which would shift the blade color towards WHITE while the button was held down.

Keep in mind that unless you're using the 10W LEDENGIN RGBA (a 4 die LED I believe), you're not going to get quite as much brightness from any ONE of the individual dies as you might from a dedicated single color LED.

The 3W RGB LEDs people often use are ROUGHLY 1Watt per die. This is less bright than a typical single color LED of the current generation, but it wasn't that long ago when 1W was *bright*

Still, you trade a little raw brightness for increased flexiblity. You can always get more than one LED/heatsink and swap them out as you like.

[Sunrider]

If you want a normal color ie., green or blue look for Ledengin 10w with parallel pcb. They have 4 3watt leds & one dome.

[forthetwilight]

Okay, so I think between this and some other forum topics I've gotten the basic understanding of how this would generally work (what with the rotary switch being the kind of hub-redirect for positive flow to get the specific colors, the resistors involved, etc). So I suppose I only really have one or two left before I can start ordering some parts to fill my poor empty hilt here.

A) This is more a confirmation that I'm understanding right, but the Add-on board's clash only effects the main led (no separate circuit), so it would need a separate switch from the power on/off (from the pack) in order to get the desired clash effect. If that's the case, what I would be looking for would be a latching switch to apply to the boards clash-switch contacts so it could be triggered "as desired" by holding the switch down, correct?

B) Although I believe its by default, it never hurts to ask: Would the shimmer/ramping effects require a similar switch, or would these simply trigger by turning on the power (from pack)?

Thanks both of you for all the help - its already steered me to change a couple aspects of the little project I'm working on. The biggest problem now is going to be trying to make all these parts fit into the poor little guy!

[alreadyRogue]

Hi everyone
I have a 3-6A driver from another site which has all the same inputs as adjustable driver board (PWM also).
So my question is would I be able to use this board as an add on for that board so that I can still have all those cool effects.
Here is the link to the board, Here.
Thanks - Rogue

[Sunrider]

Yes. You must use add on board Rev 3.0. Simply specify in the notes section when you order.

[alreadyRogue]

What does rev 3.0 mean, I just like to know what I'm doing and stuff.
Thanks - Rogue

[Sunrider]

This is the pic of the add on board at the store here.



See how it says d2Flex V2.0.

You need V3.0.

[alreadyRogue]

Alright Perfect, thanks.