Add-on board for adjustable LED driver schematic

[Matt Thorn]

This is true, but this is far cheaper. If we can use it with a simple resistor instead of the adjustable driver.

The operative term here is "add-on".

[shiningknightnjb]

I wired up my adjustable driver and add-on boards the other night and I have no shimmer or ramp up/down effects... also I was under the impression that with the momentary switch firmware that I could press it once to turn on and press again to turn off... instead I have to hold the switch to keep it on... could my board be defective or is it something else? oh, and it should be known I am running a luxIII (cyan) and my power supply is 9 volts...

[Jay-gon Jinn]

I wired up my adjustable driver and add-on boards the other night and I have no shimmer or ramp up/down effects... also I was under the impression that with the momentary switch firmware that I could press it once to turn on and press again to turn off... instead I have to hold the switch to keep it on... could my board be defective or is it something else? oh, and it should be known I am running a luxIII (cyan) and my power supply is 9 volts...

Sounds like you have a latching version of the board:

We sell them both ways.. you order a latching or a momentary.

[shiningknightnjb]

well, i really hope not since i ordered the momentary version... and there is nothing indicating which one it actually is (ie. markings of any kind)... but even if in fact it is a lathing version it should still have the shimmer while holding the button... right?

[dj2rbo]

I have one also but I haven't used it. Why don't you try a latching switch because it might be the wrong item.

[Skottsaber]

oh, and it should be known I am running a luxIII (cyan) and my power supply is 9 volts...

Why are you using a 9v battery
They are heavily inferior to AA cells. (runtime wise)

[Matt Thorn]

Indeed. I don't know about lithium 9V PP3 batteries, but your standard 9V battery is completely useless for a lightsaber.

[forthetwilight]

Hello there, Im pretty new to saber building, and although I have a real basic one working fine, I did have a few questions I hoped you all could answer for me.

Ideally, the new saber I was working on was going to use a rebel tri-star (wbb), and Im wondering if I could set up (or if someone could maybe help me understand how I could) the add-on board to work so that only the white LED would be used for clash.

Beyond that, I apologize if the next question has been answered already (I spent most my time trying to find answers to the first in my searching), but how would a person go about setting up a clash function to work on both a sensor and button (if its possible)?

Thanks in advance.

[Sunrider]

The add on board will flash the main led with a mom switch or sensor. Only CF has external flash circuit. People usually go with a multi die led rather than the tri rebel.

[forthetwilight]

I attempted to do a search here, but it appears that die is too small a word to successfully look for, so when you say a multiple die led, I assume you are referring to one that has all of the LEDs/colors under the same little dome, like a Seoul 3.5W RGB SMD (If I'm reading it's description right). I've looked around youtube for a bit and found sabers people have built (no doubt many of you fine folks where in those results) that allow for changing colors on the fly. Would this be one of the benefits of using a multi-die as opposed to the three separate LEDs?

I'm honestly more used to working with computers than I am any of these, but it is getting quite interesting none-the-less. Also, thank you for the pointing myself in the right direction.