Will this fit in a 5" extension?

[Hasid Lafre]

I dont know what everyones going on about theres onlyone 4aa batteryholder in the store and its the long one.

[Invisas1979]

Yeah sorry about that DJ, I was thinking that my charger holds aaa's and aa's so must be the same length, stupid thought really, but hey we're all prone to them.

Too much COD5 today wasn't thinking just reacting.

Soz folks.

[Hasid Lafre]

There is no cod5, infact theres no cod "#" anymore, cod4 as the last cod with a number.

[Invisas1979]

There is no cod5, infact theres no cod "#" anymore, cod4 as the last cod with a number.

Lets not derail the thread with pedantic posts eh Hasid.

[Lord Maul]

Yeah, I don't know what's up with LM's post. He must have misread something.

Crap...I thought it said 4x AAAs, not 4x AAs. The AA pack should fit in a 5", but not in a 4"

[pandatrooper]

I guess I probably been more clear. I've attached an image below of the rough layout.

I want to use a 5" extension as the lower body of the hilt, then a ribbed section. At the base of the rib section, I'm going to cut a section of sink tube to use as a base for the switch. Nothing too revolutionary so far.

I have a US 2.5 board and a P4 blue LED. So I'll be using 4AA's for a little more run time (as suggested). I could use the 4AAA but I have a lot of AA rechargables already at home for other uses.

So I wanted to see if the sound card (installed on top of the 4AA end to end holder) along with the speaker holder would fit into the 5" section. As you can see, the battery holder could go past the threading near the middle of the hilt - slightly, so long as it doesn't interfere with the switch.

I want to keep the switch in approximately the same location as where the switch would go in a standard 7" main body, as I have other hilts like that. I'd like the keep the switch in the same place on this build, just so that the feel / handling is similar to my other hilts.

Thanks again for any feedback and guidance!

[Jedi-Loreen]

Putting an AV switch through threads like that would be a bad idea.

A small hole for a screw through MHS threads is one thing, but the hole size you need for that switch would end up drilling out all the threads from that spot.

[pandatrooper]

I'm planning on using a guarded momentary on this one. I figured the threads on the switch are long enough and I don't mind guarded switches. Plus the switch and collar are above the point where the ribbed section screws in, so there should't be any problems there, correct?

[Jedi-Loreen]

Uh, no. You're cutting right into the threads for the coupler and the ribbed extension.

[pandatrooper]

I don't think I'm cutting into any threads on the extension or ribbed section. Please correct me if I'm wrong.

Maybe this diagram will clarify? The ribbed section goes into the 5" extension like it normally does. Then further towards the "blade end", I slide a 1" or so section of sink tube, this will act as a base over the ribs for the switch. Then I drill a hole for the switch.

I still can't see how this interferes with any threading of any kind.