Results 1 to 1 of 1

Thread: 05 MR Vader - Done & kits available

  1. #1
    Owner of the Custom Saber shop Strydur's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2005

    Default 05 MR Vader - Done & kits available

    05 MR Vader Conversion

    This tutorial will show you how to convert your 2005 Master Replicas Vader to a 3watt Luxeon using the conversion kit that I offer. The saber will retain all sound functions and use the original switch. You must make sure your hilt is the same design as the one shown in this tutorial. I make no guarantees that the wiring etc that I say to use in this tutorial will be the same in all models. You will need to have basic soldering and mechanical skills to do the conversion. You can reuse the stock MR blade by putting some clear or reflective tape around the base to make it a tad bit bigger. When finished you will have one very strong saber as everything between your hands and the PolyC blade will be metal to metal with no weak plastic.

    MR Vader ESB Saber
    Conversion Kit
    8.7 Degree Collimator Lens
    Lens Holder
    Cree Star LED
    Thermal Tape

    Optional but recommended
    Complete 1" Blade to replace factory one

    Picture of stock vader.

    Another picture of stock vader.

    Remove the end cap and battery pack.

    Remove the 2 flat head screws and the 2 thumb screws shown by the arrows.

    Remove the phillips head screw shown by the arrow.

    Remove the small pin shown by the arrow. (this can be hard to do without damaging pin).

    You can now remove the large pin shown by the arrow.

    The two side covers as shown by the arrow can now be removed.

    Remove the two phillips head screws shown by the arrow. (some models may vary in style).

    Remove the switch cover and then cut the switch wires and push them inside the hole.

    Pry off three plastic wire looking thingys. (these can also be hard to remove without damaging them)

    You can now remove the blade and electronics assembly from the hilt.

    Remove the two pins shown by the arrows using a hammer and a punch.

    Remove the two pins shown by prying them off with a small screwdriver.

    You can now disassemble the assembly. If your model has the quick disconnect setup as shown in this picture then the following electronics will look different.

    Remove the pin as show by the arrow. The easiest way to do this is to take a small nail punch and push the pin all the way through.

    Remove the led strip from the blade and split the housing to expose the wiring. (your wiring will look different if you have the quick disconnect style blade)

    Now wire the LED to the heatsink. Now is when you put on the thermal tape (not shown). It sticks between the LED and heatsink.

    Blue wire on shock sensor connects to Positive terminal on LED
    Purple wire from connector connects to Positive terminal on LED

    Gray wire leave alone

    Brown,Red,Orange,Yellow,Green, and Blue wire from connector connects to negative terminal of LED

    Remember to slide the heatshrink tubing on before you solder!

    Hook up and test to make sure everything works. Now put the LED assembly to the side for a while.

    Line up the new holder next to the stock holder as shown by the red line. Simply line up the tops of the two blade holders. Using the back end of the new holder as a guide mark the stock holder as shown by the green line. Cut the stock holder at the marked location.

    From left to right. Remainder of stock blade holder (Save this!), metal blade holder, old blade holder (throw away).

    Screw the heatsink into the blade holder, along with the optics.

    Take the blade holder and the small section that you just cut. There are three holes on each side of the plastic part. On one side, the holes are not aligned. Line up the large hole on that side with the string of threaded holes on the blade holder. Then take the portion of plastic with the sound board in it and attach it to the blade holder unit. Align it so that the switch wires are opposite the string of threaded holes on the blade holder.

    Drill a 11/64 hole as shown so that the thumb screw can pass through the hilt. After this smooth out all the holes on the inside of the hilt so the holder will not snag on them.

    Tape the switch wires down, so that they do not snag on the inside of the hilt.

    Push your new assembly into the hilt and align all the holes. Use the supplied phillips head machine screw to hold the assembly in place. Also, screw in the blade retention screw.

    Pull out the switch wires resolder them to the switch.

    You can now re-install everything in reverse. To reuse the wire looking thingys you will need to grind/file off a portion of them so they will mount flush. The two wires on the left have not been ground, but the one on the right has.

    The completed hilt.

    Looking down inside the emitter.

    Comparison shot of converted with stock blade (on top) and stock setup with a led or two missing (bottom).
    Last edited by Lord Maul; 05-28-2010 at 10:19 PM.


Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts