Color change saber w/Rebel RGB

[JetSet]

7.2V AAA 1000mAh NIMH Rechargeable battery pack
Could I use this battery pack with a 2.7 Ohm 10 Watt, would that be right or too much for this led?

[eastern57]

Um. Are you just going for one color? A single Rebel LED only needs about 3-3.5V and 700mA. There's a bunch of different ways to wire a tri-rebel - but the "best way" depends on what you want.

What do you want to do?

[JetSet]

I wanted to do the 7 colors with the 0-8 switch like talked about above, but wanted to buy one of the rechargeable battery packs from this site, so I could have a recharge port and all that hubbub.

[xwingband]

If you stick to what the Joe-Jedi board does you're dividing the current. That won't be driving them nearly as hard as they could be, but if you don't care then it will be fine.

I'll send you a PM. I have an options that will beat the P4 Eastern showed.

[eastern57]

who said anything about joe jedi? I think your pain meds are going to your head, xwing

[xwingband]

I'm not on any pain meds... :P (I refuse to use them pain lets you know when to stop)

Duh, I just didn't pay attention though (didn't read properly and had sound off on my comp). Still applies though. I can help you beat the P4 using much the same stuff. PM will come in a bit.

[xwingband]

Oh man... I really thought there was a n00b to reply to in this thread.

To address a lot of what Novastar said... it's true to a point on the Endor! The problem is the used that stupid triangle config. They're surface mount and you can put them anywhere so why they picked that far apart is beyond me.

There is a solution. The PCB's that are out there! I've bought the equipment to reflow solder and tried it. They put the domes as close as possible. These are small LEDs so now they're only like 6mm apart. This is close enough they fit right under the normal optics we use!

It's still not perfect... it's a very "floody" pattern like a V, but such is the way it goes. You can't get that with any LED. The real upshot is that you can pack serious lumens under it! Plus, clash flash is freakin' A-mazing with one white LED! It whites out the color just like we've always wanted.

[Novastar]

Awesome X... sounds exactly like what Gravy and I are trying to shoot for regarding the seven 616s...

Do you think the optics will be difficult due to the position changes of the dies you'll be making?

[Matt Thorn]

* So... choose a different LED--maybe the Seoul RGB or even Prolight

Would you happen to have URLs for these LEDs?

* You COULD do some kind of relay setup where the LED could be given more/the "correct" amperage while not destroying the MR board

I'm sure I'm not the only one who would love to see diagrams for such a setup. I'm totally out of my depths here, but am eager to learn.

[eastern57]

The problem with RGBs... is that there's 3 LEDs to manage and drive. And the methods used, depend on one's own preferences.

But about as simple as it goes: a rotary switch with and RGB LED would be the best [simplest] course of action.

My personally prefered set-up :

While it doesn't have the best light output per color, the LEDEngine RGGB is a great LED.
http://ledengin.com/products/10wLZ/LZ4-00MC10.pdf

8-position rotary switch: http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a...WITCH/-/1.html

driver control (corbin driver, ultrasound, CF, MR) - something that will provide regulated current.

edit: diagram attached