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Running them at 1A will be fine. The Reds you’ll have to check the spec sheet. They may only be 700 mA.

Not only that. The battery I recommended will be way more efficient for these setups. 7.4V batteries were better in the old days (CF 6 and below), but aren’t as great at driving “modern” setups. And...

It is 1A per die. You would be better off using the 3.7V 3400 mAh battery. We normally don’t mix any type of buck puck with sound cards, resistors are used.

Welcome to the Forums. What card are you using?

Is that a latching switch you are using?

What is that black square under the white wires? It appears that the LED grounds go into it.

You have a ground somewhere in your wiring.

The in game one and the Slothfurnace one are basically one and the same. He made Derelict, and he put it in the game. ;)

You can use the recharge port for a 7.4V battery.

You should be able to.

Smoothswing files do have a different setup, it’s more how the card reads it IIRC.

No, it won’t work on NB’s. The compatibility with CF is more for non smoothswing fonts.

It’s been done before using small Switch 22 (domed switch). No I don’t have any pics handy, but they’re around, somewhere.

For what you have planned, it looks fine.

Older boards like that DO NOT support Smooth Swing. That’s why you’re having issues.

That’s the main thing. You might need other resistors, but until you fix the picture, I can’t see it well enough to tell you. 😉

To post pics, usually you host it offsite, and post a BBCode link.

For the Neopixel blade, the resistor goes on the blade side PCB

No. I believe it’s under Crystal Focus Sound Fonts.

You can go through the archives on Plecter Labs website and download the SD card contents there.

Welcome to the forums.

Offhand I’d say the battery amperage was insufficient. You need a 15A battery to run a setup like that.

In case you weren’t aware, these forums are attached to a site...

I’d have to research the various wiring diagrams, but I don’t think so. You add the resistor to help protect the LEDs themselves, and also, a 50 cent resistor is way cheaper than replacing a GGW...

Each LED should have its own resistor.

You likely have a switch issue, or you have it set so that you have to hold the switch down for a couple of seconds to turn off.

What are you referring to?

That board isn’t sold here at TCSS, so I don’t believe that you’re going to find many, of any people here who will be able to really help you out.