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TCSS just recently started carrying the Golden Harvests. Previously they exclusively carried TCSS products. I’m guessing the NB will be discontinued.

Amusing to see that people are just outright copying PL stuff nowadays

Unfortunately, most people here use Plecter Labs stuff, so you’re likely going to have to refer to whatever manuals are on the ST site.

Off. Unless your saber has a very hard to reach recharge port, I don’t know why you’d use both.

It would only reboot if the battery was almost drained, or if you’re using an in hilt LED, or you don’t have the proper resistor(s) on the main LEDs or you have some type of wiring issue.

Define “more powerful”. If you mean lots of features, CFX is likely the way to go.

Depending on how bad the dent is - it should be ok, as long as you don’t have the screw pushing up next to it.

I’d check ALL of your wiring first. If something was “yanked on”, something probably came loose/apart.

After that, I’d review all of your configuration files, to make sure they’re ok.

That is fine. It’s the battery’s PCB.

I would guess so. Most signals on the board are ~20mA.

10000 Ohms.

It would be instead of.

That’s fine. There is no need to be scared of Li-ion batteries. I’ve been using them for the nearly 15 years I’ve been in the hobby.

You’re going to need li-ions, ESPECIALLY if you do a Neopixel build. You’re not really going to get around that. The ones in the store are safe, as long as you’re not completely stupid in handling...

Well, here are my thoughts:

CF LS’s are incredibly hard to come by these days. You’d be better off with a CFX.

Neopixels are way more durable than old style string blades. FoC usually looks...

That’s more so you don’t accidentally blind yourself.

A tenth of a volt here or there won’t really matter. The resistors are usually rounded up anyway, which covers inaccuracies in voltages.

I normally use my bench supply.

You can use a 2AA battery holder an spout a paper towel over the LEDs, and touch the appropriate wires to the pads and you’ll know what color is which. I use to...

The “mystery” to those is actually whether they work or not. ;)

Use the 3.7V value.

You might have a dead speaker, a disconnected wire, or a bridge in your speaker wiring. Would need good high quality close up pics of the wiring.

Yu may need to have the combos active for those to work. I haven’t really looked at them.

Oh, ok.

You would need a chassis that would fit inside a 1” diameter. Fitting things into that will be a challenge. You won’t really be able to put a sound card on top of a battery pack.

The diagram looks ok, though I don’t know what the PCBs on the far right are for.