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alcadude - Yes, it is possible. Looking here for other adhesives or methods people have tried

Greenie- Yep. That would be my standard procedure

E6000 might be an option, I wonder if anyone...

alcadude- thanks, I've used the templates. Silver Serpent is right, looking for a way to manage how things move after the fact.

The 3M adhesive is like a rubber cement compound that tends to...

I'm having a heck of time keeping the rubber t-track grips in place on my Graflex ANH build. I put them on straight, with the 3M tape, but without fail, even with careful use, they start to shift...

Yep. sounds like you got the idea. Lot's of ways to skin that cat, just need to allow for some trial error to get the switch to lay where you want it under the black graflex button.

Thanks Grey Elf! Necessity is the mother of invention.

http://i1330.photobucket.com/albums/w569/cscarroll2/20130630_162350_zps89aebf72.jpg

another pic

Here's my switch that I put under the redbutton. The two wires go back to the Pololu board.http://i1330.photobucket.com/albums/w569/cscarroll2/20130630_162356_zpscd968433.jpg

I used a scrap piece...

Al-

Thanks for the question.

I used the low voltage version. Found here:

http://www.pololu.com/product/751

You'll want to confirm based on which battery you are running. But that worked...

Bravo! Looks great!

Aeon-

Just my $.02, but I'd go to the hardware store and do some measure of different PVC pieces and see what you can come up with.

For example, everything I read for a PVC saber I built said...

Xonos-

If you want to use the red button below the bunny ears for the activation switch, the regular CSS push on/push off button will not fit. You'll need to get the pololu switch. Do a search...

btw Special THANK YOU to the seasoned sabersmiths who replied to my build thread on this guy an answered my noob questions.

Sorry that I kinda fell off the map on this thread. I did in fact finish the saber and am thrilled with how it turned out. Took in out trick-or-treating with my kids on Halloween and had great...

Dimensions for the 3 cell hilt are:

4.7" long
1.5" diameter

Make sure you use stainless steel for the tubing. if you do make your own, you can buy the pipe for cheap then have a welder cap...

Jay-gon-

Thanks so much! I kinda figured, but those boards aren't cheap and I didn't want to burn mine up. Really appreciate it!

After having no luck finding a good authority to tell me if I can run my Luke ANH MR board at 6v I went ahead and wired in a voltage regulator that knocks it down to 5v.

Things coming together...

trying to find if anyone else is running a Luke ANH MR board off a 6v battery pack...

I like the Lemurian, but that's me...

Made lots of progress over the weekend. Including fabricating my own Graflex 3 cell bottom end. Here's the process:

1. Start with piece of 4.6"L, 1.5" OD (.06" ID) stainless steel tube

8928
...

Got my new speaker last night from TCSS. Sounds great!

Have been going back and forth as to what I should do for the power supply. I've read where other guys have run these MR boards off of 6v;...

Ok, last post for the night then I'm clocking out.

Basic layout:

Here's my saber guts (I have my 2 cell bottom end in the pic for reference. 3 cell end should be coming Monday):

8899
...

Seoul P4 Assembly with Graflex Blade Holder:

So, I'm doing a Luke ANH build, so I got Tim's blade holder: http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/LED-Graflex-adapter--P221.aspx

Also, not knowing how...

Some good progress tonight. Ok fellow Noobs, listen up:

Blade assembly:

This is not rocket science!

1. I got the cheap clear 1" blade from TCSS -...

Silver-

I think I've got this figured out. Per an online source, Voltage drop on the Seoul P4 is 3.3V. Max current is 1000 mA. Also, I measured 4V on the output of on the LEDs of the MR board. ...

Silver-

thanks for the note!

I got this kit from tcss:

http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Build-Your-Own-Seoul-P4-Electronics-Kit-P469.aspx

It comes with a holder for 4 AA cells. With the...