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Thanks for the info FenderBender. I'm probably gonna order multiple of these resistors today.

Man it's been a while sense I've last posted something.

Anywho, I have a friend who purchased a stunt saber from another site and felt the need to add sound to it. The saber came with a 4 aaa...

Just a thought, if you wish to have a Cyan colored blade... try using a white Rebel star or P4 with the 12 colored discs that Tim sells.

Can't say if the trim ring will work for you or not, (someone who is more qualified than I will need to answer that). But I did run into the same problem in my build. My solution was to use a rubber...

I think mine is pretty strait forward cause I like fire and things that explode.

Thank you Crystal. I thought of that, when I checked the resistance of that particular LED. It was reading 2.2 ohms if I remember right and the combined output of the button cell batteries that...

Thank you for the compliments. I know I could have done better on the shroud work had I test fitted it some more. And I've edited the original post with new pics.


I used a style 17. It didn't...

I can speak from experience that placing your PC-L near the pommel of your saber with increase it's swing sensitivity without having to change settings on the card.

This is my first LED saber that was constructed from scratch using the MHS system. I had intended to enter this in the contest but missed the deadline cause of a technical issue in the saber which...

You shouldn't need a resistor if you are using a MR board.

A friend of mine and I converted a 07 Anakin and had access to a metal lathe at the time. I think we took off 1/32nd of a inch and with a little sanding on the inside of the hilt, everything fit snug.

Your best bet for being able to change the color of the blade would be to get a while LED and the The 12 colored disks Tim sells here.

I'm still having to use 2 batteries to make the 7.2v-7.4v sweet spot for the PC-L. I think I'm gonna have to post some pics in the general hilt building area for some sugjestions for saving space.

I was planning on zip ties for securing them. But I may have to re-concider a in hilt charging method. I created a speaker mount/battery holder and while it's very stable, I've no room to mount the...

Pretty much, just had to do a lot of shaping to make everything fit inside.

Well, I figured out a method to mount and stabilize all of my electronics. But I'm looking at possibly grounding out the PC-L against the inside of the hilt. I'm thinking of installing a thermal pad...

Your right about that one Bender, I tried testing the board and it resets when the LED is attached (works fine without the LED). Ran across another thread that had the same issue and it turned out to...

Thank you for the quick answer. I suppose it's my paranoia making me jumpy on using the PC-L cause of how much it will cost to replace if I burn it up.

I've managed to assemble all the necessary component for my saber except for the power supply. I have a AA holder from the shop and would like to use a couple of TrustFire Protected 3.7V 900mAh 14500...

Dose your heatsink allow for nylon screws to hold the LED in place or is it a custom heatsink?

I may wind up mounting the PC-L down by the pommel for better movment detection. And you will get no argument from me about the superiority of Li-ions, but I would rather be able to charge them away...

I've been attempting to figure out how to install my electronics in my saber's hilt and manage to keep the batteries removable so they may be charged out of the hilt. I was inspired by a speaker...

The Lens will work regardless of your LED of choice. I've not used the bladeholder you are looking to use, but I can't see why it would not be compatible.

If you wish to take some of the guess work out of the electronics, I would recommend a 4 wire BuckPuck 1000mA

Figured out a fix that worked. Used a flat rubber washer between the pieces and it tightens down with the parts lining up just right. I also used a foam spacer from a DVD spindle to stabilize the...