Don't do the junction. Just get two resistors and resist each die in itself and you'll be good.
Type: Posts; User: Evilpancreas
Don't do the junction. Just get two resistors and resist each die in itself and you'll be good.
Just trying to aggressively sway someone away from a disappointing purchase haha
I'm being honest though. I own a SF hilt that I installed my own stuff into and it's just not up to par for what I paid. Tim's stuff will always be superior.
Besides, why would you want to use their stuff? It's terrible haha:lol:
I've heard, and intend to do it once I get a lathe, that working MHS V2 parts as the actual core work well. It means that you have very little internal space and might have to rethink your...
1) A nice RGB LED will easily illuminate the crystal chamber at around 5mA-10mA as the manual suggests.
2) You can wire the RGB common cathode to mimic the main blade, it's the diagram that's in...
I found the section on it, and I have to admit it's pretty neat what this board can do. I'm digging the idea of having the crystal pulse going, then having the accent LEDs mimic the main blade when...
Wow I never thought of that. How did you go about making it mirror the blade?
Using ohm's law, I came to a 15 ohm, 1/2 watt resistor. Can someone check over this? Motor specs are 3V, 0.3A current.
I was actually too lazy to draw the resistors in for the accent LED. I do need help figuring out the resistor needed for the motor.
So I have nearly all the electronics to build a saber. CF 7.5, CEx, battery, speaker, etc. I have a wiring diagram for the board, and I'd really like to have someone look over it for me. My main...
Just a heads up, all the boards are currently being made so the CF should be back in stock soon.
I think it might be a battery issue to be honest. Every time my sabers start to run low on juice, the LED only works when swinging. Are you using a 7.4v battery? And is the battery solution charged?...
Damn that is a fine looking saber man! I've always had a soft spot for leather, battle-worn sabers and this is absolutely amazing. Very nicely done.
In the end the cost will be damn near identical with how much it'll cost to ship and buy the hasbro one. I forgot to mention; the hasbro boards are extremely fragile and break way too easily. I broke...
I'll be really honest with you, it isn't worth the money to try and get a cheap board. You're MUCH better off saving some money, even if it takes a while, and getting a nano. I had a saber with a...
Thalan is correct on the wiring. The switch's + and - to the accent LED spot, the other two (doesn't matter which lead) are just wired into the switch spots like normal. Just make 100% sure the...
With that setup (without the color extender) you're looking at pseudo color mixing. If that's what you're going for, then this is how you'd wire it: http://screencast.com/t/kYavWpdg9L. Keep in mind...
Thanks guys, I might have to throw some sith writing on my old red saber! Maybe it won't look so basic anymore.
I have a quick question regarding this. I have a saber that's already built, but I REALLY don't want to dismantle it. Can I do this cotton swab etching without dismantling it? I'd reckon it's fine...
That's a really, really cool method of engraving. I'm definitely going to use this on my next build, thanks a ton for posting this!
You can definitely buy a nano or better to replace the board. With a nano you can do two Cree xp-e2 die in parallel being each driven at 1 amp. With two die, that'll be stupid bright. You can buy the...
Skip the buckpuck, the battery set-ups won't work with the nano. Use a 3.7v source. If you're going to run the LED at the standard 1000ma, then use a 1.2 ohm, 1.2 watt resistor. Hope that helps.
I'd second what Bomber said. If you wire in a R.I.C.E. port on the Prizm, you can color mix really well and get the exact shades you want. That's the best way to go about it.
Hmm that would be kind of strange to do. You could go with the nano, it had the swings, clashes, ignition, retraction, and a hum. I guess you could remove the swings from that.