If you're going with 232 LEDDs the same colour then as Whosle said, you don't need the Power Extender, simply run both the LEDs off the same L- pad.
The following diagram should work for you:
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Type: Posts; User: Vypr
If you're going with 232 LEDDs the same colour then as Whosle said, you don't need the Power Extender, simply run both the LEDs off the same L- pad.
The following diagram should work for you:
16084
Assuming you are wiring 1 die with 2 LEDs and you are using a recharge port, you would want a circuit similar to this:
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I haven't put a resistor value in as I don't know what colours you...
Resistor goes to either the positive or negative LED wires, doesn't matter which one.
Personally I put them on the +ve lead so I can join them all to one lead that connects to the battery
That looks nice, Once I get the buttons back in place on mine I'll post a proper picture.
1. I considered leaving the resistors ou but I decided on a "better safe than sorry approach", the...
Update:
things went a bit south today, the sound stopped working.
Was getting a constant clicking noise when the kill switch was removed. Thought I'd blown another speaker so took the speaker off....
I'm using a standard Style 4 1" safety plug. It juts out the end so it's not ideal but it does the job of not blinding me if I accidentally peek down the emitter (I would fail any gun safety test :)...
Well windvanes going to have to stay upside down as I do not want to risk cutting the LED wires and screwing everything up (again) :p
TOm, well spotted, looks like I uploaded the wrong diagram,...
Korbanth K4 Build Log
By A. Noob.
This is my first attempt at wiring my own saber for sound and light. My previous project was a partial conversion of a MR Vader which had a broken LED String so...
HI,
Hopefully this will help:
1. A Tri setup will give you a brighter and more uniform blade illumination along the length of the saber compared to a single LED, unfortunately the difference is...
If it's coming on when you bridge the connection with your multimeter then it looks like most of your connections are fine and the problem is either the wring to the switch or the switch itself..
Mr...
Do you have a multimeter to check your connections with?
Set it to measure resistance, put one probe on the '-' pad and the other on the 'Act' pad then push the switch. The multimeter should...
Are you wanting the Switch LED to come on with the saber? In which case L1 or L2 will do. If it is a case of always on when power is applied to the board, the pad pointed out on Page 14 of the manual...
You're most likely correct on the PeX, I was using this video for reference on wiring
https://youtu.be/67XDSJbDAS4
I looked at KR sabers site but they don't appear to sell soundboards, the only...
I think the Power Extender was built into the V3 board which it looks like your wiring is set up for but removed from the V4 to allow separate pads for the two main LEDs.
According to the manual you...
How are you getting on with this?
I have the same hilt and looking at the same type of build (minus the crystal chamber and accent LEDs)
I'm planning on 0.47 Ohm 1W on each LED but, as you say,...