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I distinctly hear the electrical hum of wall wart chargers, but I always assumed everyone did.

Update #2:

Remove kill plug -> booting sound -> I hear the static noise

Turn the lightsaber on -> turn it off -> Leave it off for a while (without the kill plug inserted) -> I don't hear the...

Update: It wasn't the tape. I removed the tape, but I can still hear the static noise.

The noise disappeared when I removed the MicroSD card, but reappered when I put it back in.

BTW, I just...

13442

I first noticed it when the lightsaber was already assembled. Doesn't mean it wasn't there before. I don't see how it could have happened though. Nothing on the board it bridged. Everything is...

When the lightsaber is off, if a put my ear next to the speaker, I can hear a very soft static noise.

It disappears when I insert the kill plug in the recharge port.

I've build many lightsabers...

The parts that I got look nothing like yours. I was very disappointed. One of them barely has any color and the other one looks like it hasn't been powder coated at all. The only reason I didn't...

Here's a comparative picture of the old Copper Jacket Metallic versus the new Copper Metallic.

The colors are very different. The old one looked more like real metal. The new one is more orangish...

The new copper metallic is very different than the old copper jacket metallic. I don't know why you changed it, but I liked the old one much better. The copper metallic is too orangish.

I plan to use a Pololu Pushbutton Power Switch LV Board. That's why I asked the question.

Does anyone know which one is the switch + on this board?

The switch wires are labeled S2 and S4.

http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/sabers/scripts/lukesoundwiring.jpg

The red P4 was secured to a copper heatsink, buddy.

That may be true for Luxeon III's, but Seoul P4's require lower voltage than them.

I tried driving a Red P4 by an MR FX board without resistor (I used a 4.8V battery pack then) and the LED got...

I'm not 100% sure what resistor I need.

* Red Seoul P4 LED (forward voltage: 2.5V, mA: 800-1000)
* MR FX board
* AW 3.7V Li-Ion battery (2900mAh)

I understand the FX board needs ~0.5V, which...

I know, this is my sixth custom saber. The led was getting unusually hot. Using a 2.2 Ohm 2 Watt resistor solved the problem.

I had added a 1 Ohm 2 Watt resistor, but the voltage output from the Mace board might be higher than 3.2V. I'll try adding a 2.2 Ohm resistor as Matt suggested.

Yep, it's fixed to a copper heatsink.

Have anyone measured the output voltage from a Mace FX board? I believe I used the correct resistor, but my led got hot really fast.

Mace FX board
4.8V battery pack
Red Seoul P4 (Forward...

I used it with a 4.8V battery pack (4 1.2V AAA rechargeable batteries) and it worked just fine.

Thanks!

What if I wanted to use a white Seoul P4 LED (Forward Voltage: 3.25V)?
I would need a 1.5 Ohm 5 Watt resistor in that case, wouldn't I?

I have a question about this board.

I was told that at 6V input the default ouput was 4V and 1000mAh, so I used a 1 Ohm, 2 Watt resistor with a Green Seoul P4 (forward Voltage: 3.25V). ...

Are you complaining about having to pay € 18 in customs fees? That's nothing!

Customs fees are 50% of the total cost including shipping here in Argentina.

BTW, blue is the speaker positive and green the speaker negative.

The relay acts as the switch. The BuckPuck puts out 1A to the LED. No, you won't be drawing 1A through the board.