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Easy there Hot shots....Ive been comming here long enough to know the rules I think.

Blue o-rings can be found here..........http://www.mcmaster.com/#o-rings/=a9smxy

I am really digging this saber, excellent job CC :)

Firedrops, complaining, like you did in an open forum without first trying to work things out with the sabersmith that made your saber will get you only one thing in this...

J-low is right, the Mace still runs at 4.5v it is just wired with 3 batterys running parallel to the other 3 for longer run time, I believe MR did that with the Luke ROTJ as well. the MAX Voltage for...

Nice....:)

Nice Job, I like the venting for the sound :)

ooh ooh ooh ah ah ah .....thats my best text based gorilla sound :)

I agree j-lo, you should never need to crank a blade screw that tight, there is a tremendous amount of force being generated by...

#8-32 is my choice, reason being, if it gets stripped out you can go to #10-32. Any thing bigger just isnt a fine enough pitch for the thin wall of some blade holders. :)

Agree with Fender I do, a little goes a long way so take a few passes with a file, check it, take a few passes, check it.....repeat you will be suprised how little it takes :)

Hence the fried board. I'm afraid it was nothing more than a defective board my friend, kind of like the brain tumor that gives you super powers but eventually blows up and kills you. :( (OK maybe...

Thanks for gettin my back Nova :)

there is nothing to worry about, that board cant put out enough voltage or amperage to hurt a lux 3. if you want to check it for your own knowlege it cant hurt (as long as you know what your doing...

Everybody always wants the brightest possible blade but unless you have something to directly compare it to, like another saber with the same LED that is driven to the optimal specs , you probably...

it will run it, but it would only be getting about 1/4 the current (amps) it needs to be at its optimum performance/brightness. Reds run best at about 1400 mA, the joe jedi only puts out about 350 mA...

the short answer is.....

yes, 4 aaa is OK

no , the board will not control the puck that way

read this in its entirety ....

http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?t=4252

Happens to me too, its the trustfires moving in the holder and loosing contact, I think the trustfires are slightly longer than a AA so its kind of bottoming out the springs and not giving it any...

pics would help greatly

Yes, I don't think you need one for the speaker though

Any DPDT switch will work, as long as it is latching.

Keep it simple, Lots of people have tried various methods to use this board and to modify this setup with mixed results and a lot of fried...

yes, you need the diodes whether you use a puck or a resistor. I have found that for some reason, if you use a corbin driver you dont seem to need them.

If you think a $15 is an expensive component, your in the wrong hobby my friend.

I have been watching this as well obi-dar, and have been working on one as well, In fact you are the one to inspire me to try it in MHS parts, so don't give up:)

It is indeed a very difficult...

www.webs.com has treated me well

http://www.signaturehardware.com/class307

there is a pull down menu for the different finishes